Democratic Sentinel, Volume 16, Number 21, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 10 June 1892 — GAY AND GIDDY GIRLS. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

GAY AND GIDDY GIRLS.

WHAT THEY WILL WEAR DURING SUMMER. The Summer Girl Is Now Right In It. and She Will Be More Attractive This Season than Ever—Styles Peculiar to Her. New York Letter.

THIS is the one time of the whole year more interesting thdn all others to women in the matter of dress, writes our ( \ New York corre- , spondeut. The spring styles are \\ \ just being put off, A I and the summer V I Styles are just p I about to be put / on. That moms J a deal of anxiety I A to the wearer of Jr-AY fashionable garV-' ments, no matter M whether she be \W rich enough to b->y whatever she fan- * cies, or whether '■ she be poor

enough to count all the cents she spends. To the woman who has simply to go, and order her clothes, and to the one who has to make her own apparel, June is alike the most important month of the twelve. The depiction of summer raiment in this article, by means of drawings and text, and that which is to follow from week to week, may be depended upon as the freshest illustrated news in fashions. It is one thing to give the styles ns planned by foreign designers, but which may never come into American wear at all, and quite another to set forth with pen and pencil the garments actually made up to order for the most modish women in New York. The latter method is the one here adopted, and so the representations of toilets for June, July and August are not conjectural, but absolutely trustworthy. The first two pictures are of June women in town, anil the other three are of women as they will be at the summer resorts. Don’t fancy the summer girl is a thing of the past because you have not heard of her of late. She is in training, that is all, and she is going to be more fetching and taking and all-arounding than ever. Maybe you think this new fad of long skirts, with a drag behind, is going to interfere with the general fitness of her for the country. Not a bit of it! She is going to wear bewildering petticoats, not of silk—not she—but of scarlet, navy blue or striped all, colors, and the skirts will have rows of braid and they will be a bit shorter thnn the dresses used to be. Meanwhile her train will be still longer than the aver-

age girl's, long enough to bo picked up and slung over her arm, and—a newte - witchment—long enough to be drawn through her belt, thereby leaving her arms tree. Her dress skirt, you see, won’t be fastened down to a lining. It will hang soft and loose over this petticoat, and it will gather into all sorts of piquant folds when it is drawn up over the arm or through the belt. No, she won’t be a tub; the summer girl never i? like a tub, no matter what she does or wears.

Thus does fashion add to the possibilities of the summer gill, as have all fa-hions since the summer girl first evolved. She has a new notion for iho shirt waist. Say what you will, the shirt waist was a little inclined to bulge forth, even when the nicest pocket was worn, and the Gordon sash was not all it should have been. Now the summer girl will have a broad knit striped belt—so broad it will come up to just below the breast line. The lower edge of the belt will be securely sewed to the shirt band, all neat and shipshape. It will go on with the shirt and fasten with it. Sometimes it will lace at the side; then the shirt opens there and laces down, too, to jus.t over the hip. The shirt waist is made very close in. the back, so as to have no “bag” over the edge of this bodice girdle, and in the front it is drawn under the trim, close-fitting girdle, and is 10. se only above, where it looks as it should. The arms are all free. Even the coat can be dispensed with, and the girl is trim and ready for anything, which two charms are difficult to accomplish at one and tfife same time.

All this for the rowing, tramping, yachting girl. The "hammock, garden party, piazza-by-moonlight girl is going to be a dream. The new gowns are just in her line exactly, ant streamers will float from her in all directions, and she will be harder to get away from than ever, for at every turn of the wind those streamers will entwine you, and it is so hard to get untangled, aud—w. U, it is the same

old story. Everything helps the summer girl, and every chance Is removed from the happy summer man to make the escape he does not want to make. There is another thing that the summer girl will do. The styles in bangs have changed so often that she finds herself with her hair all lengths. Now, even if it curls, and particularly if it doesn’t, it will be in a tousy frouse when the wind blows. Desides, she is training now for the classic act, and she wants her front hair to grow so that sho can next winter part it in the middle. Instead of despairing or submitting to a tousle she will tie down her pretty hair with a bright-colored scarf. The bang will just show under its edge around her forehead, and all tlio rest will be kept close. The scarf will knot just where it is most enslaving to the beholder, and over it all will go the never-to-be-given-up visor yachting cap; and behold that same cap which, when she first stole it from her brother, seemed just the climax of fascination, now puts forth new shoots of deiiciousness, and you might ns well give up at once to the summer girl. This same scarf she can wear under any hat; and if it is very tocoming she will turn it into a permanent head-dress, knotting it just above the best curl in her bang and letting two cocky little ends stick up, and there sheis! This best curl is being much cultivated. I know a clever girl who paints hers; yes, just that. She has put her hair back from her forehead, and she does not want to cut it m ain, so down in the middle of her brow'she paints a

curl, and she paints it so well that in the evening or back under her hat brim and through her veil no one would suspect. She says she is going to use oil paint in the summer and then she can go in bathing and the curl will stay. Won’t the other girls just hate her, though! Speaking of bathing; no more corsets this coining season under the-bath suit, but instead a Jersey bodice, good anil double thick from waist to breast line. Above that to the low-neck top it is thinner, but firm. It laces all the way down. The figure is thus held firm and close, and the waist can even be drawn in a little. Except for this, bath suits will be as they were, only a little more so, or rather less, to be exact. Oh, don’t fret about this season. The summer girl will be all there. The initial illustration pictures a very stylish make-up for an outdoor costume in woolen material. The basques are sewed on to the waist and are made with pleats, but not gathered at the waist. They flare at the back and show the folds of the skirt. The corsage fronts cross as indicated. The corselet may be of surah, or bengaline, in a lighter shade. It is set off with a butterfly knot. The lace mantelet with beige cloth tabs shown in 4 second drawing is a showy but refined garment, original in make-up. The tabs and yoke are repeated at the back, the openings front and back being idled as indicated with long pearled fringe. The tabs are embroidered with jet and edged with pearl beads. A Yalois collar and bows of ribbon on the shoulders complete this handsome garment. The third illustration presents a pretty indoor gown, with a bell-shaped skirt. The Swiss belt may be embroidered either with black or gold braid. Its ends eroelfs at the back. The plastron is in colored embroidery, but a very pretty effect may.

be attained with pleated surah. The revers start from the shoulder seam. Illustration }vo. 4 pictures a charming reception dress in blue-gray, trimmed with lace and gold bead galloon, made up in princess style, and lined with merveilieux. The side hooks under the broad fiat Watteau pleat, which is attached to the dress only as far as the waist line, below which 'it falls freely It is hooked at the back and is lined with silk. The gathered laee collarette is sewed on reversed and fastened in front with fancy pins. The corsage front has no seam and is draped as indipated, the sleeves being draped in the same style and ornamented with a laee cascade and laee trills. The galloon starts from the Watteau pleats and is fastened to the skirt. Of the group portrayed in the last pi' tore the seated figure displays an out-door gown iu woolen check, the skirt which hocks to the waist being garnitured as shown with a rucho and two rows of lace. The corsage has but one dart and is gathered at the waist. There is a lace bertha and lace ruche for the collar. The princess gown of the standing figure is a gray serge, and has no seam in the middle. The gores are hidden by braid or galloon. An embroidered yoke and embroidered cuffs serve to set off this stylish gown. The dress worn by the little miss has a skirt gathered on the waist and ornamented with- passementerie and narrow velvet ribbon. The waist hooks at the back, and is ornamented with ribbon braces, and there is a velvet belt tied as indicated.

Since the death of the celebrated sur- ! geon, Dr. Haynes Agnew, the instances j of his humane kindness and charity are i fast multiplying. He made it a rule to i charge his patients strictly according to i their circumstances. Thos- of moderate means paid $2 for each visit, while a wealthy patient was often charged from sl,l*oo to $2,500, and the wife of an English nobleman once paid $20,000 for » , single operation. Polish is given, not by adding sorajthing, but by removing imperfections.

LACE AND CLOTH MANTELET.

STYLISH INDOOR GOWN.

RECEPTIONIST COSTUME.

OUTDOOR DRESSES.