Democratic Sentinel, Volume 16, Number 19, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 27 May 1892 — GAY SUMMER GOWNS. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

GAY SUMMER GOWNS.

THEY ARE USEFUL AS WELL AS ORNAMENTAL. The Ribbon Buh Promises to Be Much Affected This Season—Toilets for Garden Parties and Outdoor Fetes—Stylish Reception Costume. New York Better.

OOD sauce, says an old proverb, will save a poor dinner, and it is iWT' probably quite as >. true that you can I [HU make a stylish tjjfi/i- gown out of or'ML f ; dinary material if ■-rA*' you will only trim it artistically, writes our . New York correspondent. We —1 “ trim our speech ,l;. with flowery and complimentary h*.' * language, and it seems only logleal that we should make our

attire ornamental as well as useful. It is money well expended, for if the dressreformers ever succeed in dressing us all alike it will be a life-long puzzle for us to get at the characters of our fellow creatures. It is not the gown that a woman wears, but the style in which it is trimmed that tells us who and what she is. A woman might be able to conceal her feelings and control her tongue, but she would be sure to betray herself by the garniture of her attife. The length of a ribbon and the style in which a bow is tied often speak louder than words. s With the near approach of summer this question of appropriate garniture becomes an important one, and on the subject of sashes alone I might say a great deal. All kinds are sure to be popular, not only such as conform to the Watteau patterns but those which with their short ends and irregular loops are set either on the right or left. The ribbon sash, too, promises to be very much affected, the wider ones being wound around the figure twice or three times, then drawn down to one side and finished with a single loop or a long narrow slide or buckle. For a long waist a soft jongee sash is always extremely becomng, only great care must be observed in draping it so as to give it gracefully careless folds, fastening it with a simple knot and two ends. In my initial illustration I set before you a very charming sash effect. The gown may be made up in any woolen material with silk of the same shade. The right front of the corsage is double, the outer portion be-

ing cut as indicated and ornamented with a bias rever running to a point at the shoulder seam. The cuffs are in the turned-back style and, there is a large* bow of silk gauze at the neok, the ends of which descend jabot-style, passing under the rever. The silk scarf is tied around the waist and has fringed ends. My second illustration pictures a stylishly designed walking dress, which may be made hp in any of the popular fabrics of the season. It is cut princess, and and the back pieces, the seams of which start from the shoulder, are cut very bias at the top. and they make up the train. As the side which crosses has no seam in the middle of the skirt, it is sewed to the other until within fifteen inches of the waist line; after that it is buttoned. In order to make the tabs properly, you should make use of a card pattern, basting the outlines and lining the material with muslin. The tabs should be edged with bengaline, and so also should the bottom of the skirt. The trimmings of the sleeves should be included in the inside seam, and the style of the straight collar should conform to the buttoned tab pattern. With the coming in of the poetio month of June, it is only to be expected that the sumjner girl should busy herself with thoughts of toilets for garden parties and outdoor* fetes, which call for gossamej gowns in soft tones, set off with ribbon garniture. The coming season gives sure promise of a long series of such fetes; in fact, it will be the effort of those who entertain to take advantage of sunshiny day, for what woman doesn’t feel that she looks her best when embowered in green or sit-

ting like Queen Titania on a flo'wery bed with musk roses in her hands. As the garden party and the lawn party are to be the fashionable style of outdoor fete, my lady of Castle Caprice will be expected to arrive on the scene wearing a gown that will put the very flowers to blush, so delicate are the tones, so dainty the fabrics, so ar-

tißtlc the make-ups of outdoor toilets this season. In my third picture you will find a charming gown for an outdoor fete. The material is white orepe with multicolored satin stripes. In selecting the moire ribbon for trimming, you may either choose a tone harmonizing with the ground material or with one of the stripes. The dress should be lined with satinette, and the bottom of the skirt be finished with a pleated flounce of the material, with rosettes set as indicated and forming the head of the flounce. The front and back of the corsage is pleated. There is but one seam, which is placed under the arm. The lining of the corsage should be carefully fitted and boned before the crepe tissue is laid on. The dress hooks at the back. The neck and arm-holes are nofrcyt out until the material has been completely adjusted. The collar forms part of the pleated front and back. The traces start from the corselet, and have bows on the shoulders,and, although the corselet is very wide in front, it diminishes to a point at the back, where the braces meet and end in a bow. It is made of the moire ribbon, and should be boned. At the back the long ends fall to the bottom of the skirt. They are of one piece with the braces, and pass under the corselet, which is set off with a frill of the material, under which, at the front, the moire ribbons are placed bias on the front breadth. The puffed sleeves are ornamented vrtth ribbon

bracelets, and the deep cuffs are trimmed with bows, as indicated. My fourth illustration represents a lovely reception dress of emerald-green bengaline. This gown should be lined with silk or some light stuff of the same shade. The skirt has a band instead of a belt, and at the bottom between the stuff and the lining there is a false hem of muslin eighteen to twenty inches in height. All the breadths are bias. The corsage passes under the skirt and closes invisibly at the front. It is made over a fitted lining', and is set off by a silk muslin yoke, beneath which you remove the lining, and garniture with a bertha of guipure or other lace ewed on with reversed seam. There are no darts in the material. It is pleated on the lining. The back pieces are slightly pleated at the waist and have a seam in the middle. A ruche of pink ribbon is placed above the lace bertha on the right. The belt consists of velvet leaves laid on a tulle foundation and edged with pearl chenille fringe. The sleeves are made very large at the top. No summer girl can pronounce her outfit complete unless it contains a jacket of some sort, and if she has a pretty figure she will never consent to hide it under a shapeless coat, for the .summer girl, no matter how frivolous and thoughtless she may appear to be in matters of sentiment, when it comes to the practical concerns of life will be found extremely long-headed; She knows that men are coy and beauty fleeting, and she also knows that there is no time like the present, for who can tell whether the same fish will be in fashion’s pond the next season, especially if some sister drops a golden hook in these waters. Therefore, now is the time for the skillful mother to drop a fashion fly in front of a matrimonial trout. He is pretty sure to rise to it. Some very stylish jackets have the fronts, cut away and others have a close, high vest, braided thickly, or the fronts are turned back and braided and the Vest is plain and fastened with frogs or barrel buttons. Fine silky vicuna in warm tone of brown sets off delightfully the tints of the skirt. Usually fronts are braided from the bust down, and the back is finished to correspond. In my last picture you see represented

a natty little jacket in white cloth, with a collar of gray surah. The dress material is a black and pale gray striped pekin, the gray stripe having applique velvet designs in pink and dark green; the bonnet is of white pleated crepe de chine, dark green small leaves and a big butterfly. No doubt there will Bo many to affect the mannish attire again this season, a style of outdoor dress in which the English women fairly revel. And the fact is, the jacket bodice opening on a real shirt front relieved by a deep sash is very becoming to the redcheeked, robust girl who always has an air of being half-minded to walk over the bodies of her frail sisters. For this style of girl, the 60-called Eton coat is well adapted! It is simply a basqueless corsage with broad lapels opening on a blouse or surah shirt. It is well suited for rough wear, when boating, picnicking, or tramping. The straight collar and four-in-hand tie go with it. In the way of headgear the summer girl bids fair to get quite back to the days of her great grandmother, as the very names, “Mother Hubbard,” “Mother Goose," “Queen Anne,” and “Welsh Peasant” indicate. The Mother Hubbard is a faithful copy of the head-cov-ering worn by that pleasant dame of our nursery days, the crown inclining backward, rising in a narrow oval peak to the height of five or six inches, with a brim of curled edge tipped down in front and curled up at the back. This unique model looks charming In beigecolored Milan straw, the brim faced with a welt of velvet in beige color, a welt of velvet around the crown forming a knot at the front which hold an Alsatian bow of French crepe in straw color, and a great wide flat tow of straw-colored velvet at the back. Nobody has any trouble about living a beautiful Christian life, who tries to do it one day at a time.

STYLISH WALKING DRESS.

DRESS FOR GARDES PARTY.

RECEPTION COSTUME.

FOR AN OUTDOOR FETE.