Democratic Sentinel, Volume 16, Number 19, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 27 May 1892 — Page 4

Site Jlcmocraticgcntinci RENSSELAER, INDIANA. J. W. ItcEWEN, - - Publisher

The rumor that Dan Coughlin is eeriously ill is denied by advices from Joliet. It is understood, however, that he is confined to the house. The pictures of the Grant monument as it will appear when completed afford an interesting glimpse of the scenes of the twenty-first century * The proverb says that it’s a poor rule that won’t work both ways, but many rules would be perfectly satisfactorily if they could be made to work one. If you want to see how fast money feally can go, put it on the wrong horse and then meditate upon the eccentricities of fortune as you tear up your pool tickets. A Chicago park policeman has been condemned to pay S4OO for riding over a bicycler. When park policemen are so reckless as to mount a horse they should take a boy along to steer. Bernhardt has gone and several barrels of shining American coin have gone with her. She still loves America—particularly that part of it stamped s—and will return again. M. Ravachol is in great luck to be a Parisian. Anywhere else he would have been hanged in a distressingly matter-of-fact way long ago, and so quite missed his opportunity to be a hero.

If China were suddenly to conclude to move California would have to 6end her washing East, and her citizens generally would have to get down to work. It might he good for her dyspepsia. A school of Buddhism has been founded in Paris, and its limited accommodations are already overrun with pupils. If there was a school of Beelzebub Organized in Paris it, too, would likely be crowded. new extradition treaty between this country and Germany will add numerously to the list of extraditable offenses. The time will yet come when there will be no safe city of refuge for the wrongdoer. A Boston newspaper remarks that bloodhounds are good-natured. May be; but the writer evidently never roosted on the topmost branch of a tree in a dense swamp with a pack of these gentle creatures him. \S* ~~ " Dame Nature distributes her benefactions in a mighty queer way. For example, a spring whose waters are a sure cure for drunkenness has been discovered up in Montana—more than a thousand miles from Kentucky.

i There is material for a farce, a tragedy, an opera, or what not in the Western incident of the six sisters who dressed in men’s attire and robbed the stage coaches. There’ is certainly no lack of variety to American life. White Ghost, Chief of the Coon Creek Sioux, has written a letter to the Commissioner at Washington that is spiced with facts and demands for justice. White Ghost was not a •dancer,” but appears to be a good letter writer. Persons of cheerfully optimistic habits of thought are beginning to hope that the World’s Fair directors will decide whether they want a loan n an appropriation in time to get it for the quintennial celebration of the iiscovery of America. Several spinsters of ancient orifin are very angry that Gladstone ihould refuse to take up the woman mffrage cause for the reason that he Is to© far advanced in life. It is re ceived as a discourteous dig on the part of the venerable statesman. There is a pathway straight to fame and fortune open to the archi . tect who will make his fire-proof buildings water-proof as well. Reports of trivial conflagrations in the upper stories of fire-proof buildings which wind up with the estimate—algebraically expressed—“damage by Are, x; damage by water, 10 x” are getting to be painfully frequent.

There were were a good many people smiling at Grief in Cincinnati a few days ago. Miss Mary Grief, a pretty girl of 19, placed a chair over a post-hole, made by Western Union workmen opposite her father’s home, and deliberately and firmly tat down and held the chair in place while her'father obtained an injunction against putting a telegraph pole where he did not wnat it. The Ohio and Mississippi Rivers are among the most unruly and ungovernable of Uncle Sam’s thoroughfares. In the summer they have a fashion of dropping the bottoms of iteamers too clpse to the ground, and in the spring covering ail the bottom farms and invading tim houses to the second story. Just now there is great anxiety on the lower waters lest, the H breaking of embankments spread wide desolation over the farming > tiie assassin

anarchy meant business. But Ravachol must reflect that he may, at any time, be tried on several other capital chaises against him, and next time he will not come off so easily. Of couse, the verdict will greatly encourage the anarchists. Governor Buchanan, of Tennessee, showed physical courage in opposing the mob at Nashville, but he was lacking in moral courage when he did not uphold the dignity of the law as Chief Executive by putting a sufficient guard at the jail. He sent troops against the miners when they freed the convicts in the mines, but he did not call out a soldier dr an extra guard for duty at the jail, almost in the shadow of his executive office, when he had ample warning that the prisoners would be taken out of his hands and lynched. Tie stream of immigration pours in with increasing volume. The number of arrivals in March was 53,879, against 52,172 in March last year. During the last three months the number arrived was 98,004, and during the last nine months 363,363, against 86,048 and 116,237, respectively, for the corresponding periods last year. The greatest increase was over 2,000 from Russia, and it is to be presumed that the arrivals were largely Jews. There was a small increase from Austria-Hungary, Germany and Sweden and Norway, but a decrease ,pf about 1,300 from Italy and about 1,600 from the British isles.

Some good people who have been poorly informed continue to grumble because the United States will not enact rigid restrictions on immigration. That it will not do so is very clear. Of the two new projects of law proposed since the Immigration Commission’s report the one which is least drastic is certain of adoption. The other has been sent to the limbo to which a free country should consign all illiberal measures. In the Forum, Edward Atkinson, the wellknown economist, devotes a few crisp pages to ridiculing the notion—far too popular nowadays—that we have no more room for immigrants. He shows very clearly that the five and a quarter million of immigrants who have come to this country since 1881 are scarcely noticeable in the vastness of territory through which they are scattered. We have still, he cries in a burst of enthusiasm—but enthusiasm backed up by statistics—incalculable room for immigrants!

King Humbert is eager that his country should continue to rank as a first-class power. The Italian people are ground down by oppressive taxation, and the historic old Roman families are being brought to beggary. The attempt to make a small reduction in the army estimates recently the cabinet. A reconstructed ministry, ly making the proposed reduction, by an increase of taxation, and by a new national loan of $40,000,000, will try to make both ends meet. Increase of taxation! It is piling Ossa on Pelion. What is imperative in Italy is reduction of taxes. Kaiser William may be nervously ambitious to become the central figure in European political circles, and he may may his military drama to the impoverishment of his fatherland. But King Humbert, even if he did promise, as a member of the triple alliance, to maintain Italy’s war equipment at its present elevation, will soon find his promise impossible of fulfillment.

The suggestion has been made that the Keeley cure of dipsomania be recognized by law as a reform agent, and that any man or woman convicted of crime and proven to be addicted to the intemperate use of liquor should be sent to a prison hospital and subjected to this treatment. The State of Ohio is verging toward the acceptance of this idea. Recently there was introduced in the Legislature a bill for the experimental treatment of eighty-two drunkards to be chosen one each by Representatives in the Legislature, the Governor to appoint a commission which was to contract with a Keeley sanitarium where the legislators can bring their inebriate constituents and have them subjected to the double bichloride of gold cure at the expepse of the State. When the bill passes and the efficacy of the cure is thus officially demonstrated it will not take long to secure its adoption in penal institutions. The Ohio legislature adjourned without passing the bill, concluding that it was best to let public opinion ripen enough to demand its enactment, which it may do by the time the General Assembly of that State next meets.

Strange Case.

A case of temporary survival of a wound which should have, apparently, caused instant death, is that of a boy who was picking up shavings in a carpenter shop. He slippped and fell, and his head struck against a revolving buzz saw. He staggered to his feet and went to an apothecary to have the cut in his head dressed. He said his head pained him terribly. , This was not wondered at when it was found that the saw had cut through his skull in such a way as to divide the two lobes of the brain. The boy lived for several days and retained consciousness till the last. According to the common acceptance of things, he should have died on the spot at the time he sustained this most remarkable injury.

Oldest Woman Preacher.

Rev. Lydia Sexton, who has made Seattle her home for the past three years, received her license to preach in 1851, but she was an exhorter for ten years previous to that, so she has been in the service a full half century. She is now 93 and probably the oldest woman preacha l- iq the country.

VICTIMS OF THE TARIFF

MEN WHO DO NOT"ENJOY THE TIN-PLATE FARCE. Owners of Factories Whose Business Is Curtailed—Labor Cost in Europe and the United States—Continuation of McKinley's Account. The Tariff Bobbery. The New York Tribune and other high-tax papers are going into ecstasies over the report of Ira Ayer, Special Agent of the Treasury Department, on the tin plate industry. The report shows that during the quarter ending March 31, 1892, nineteen manufacturers produced about 3,000,000 pounds of tin and terne plates, about two-thirds of which were terne plates; and that the production for the past fiscal year has been 4,527,230 pounds, of which 1,335,058 pounds were tin plate. As our annual consumption of tin plate is about 400,000,000 pounds, our last year’s product would supply us for about three days, and is equal to about one per cent, of our total needs. To attain this magnificent standing among the tin plate

manufacturing nations of the earth, we are now taxing ourselves at the rate of ten or twelve million dollars per annum, and have expended, during the last fifty years, perhaps one hundred and fifty million dollars for the same purpose. This expense, however, as great as it is, does not begin to equal the indirect cost to us, due to the injury done to other industries by high-priced tin plate. An idea of this indirect expense and injury can be gained by reports from various large consumers of tin plate made in the National Provisioner of April 30, 1892. The National Provisioner is the “organ of the provision and meat industries of the United States.” It advocates the interests of its subscribers, and is not biased in favor of any theory. The following extracts are from this number of the National Provisioner: “In view of the fact that the bill of the Hon. T. L. Bunting providing for the reduction of the duties on tin and terne plates, a copy of which was published in a recent number of this journal, has been introduced in Congress and will come up for discussion in a week or two, the directors of the Tin-Plate Consumers’ Association have endeavored to ascertain what the effect of the increased duty has been upon the business of the consumers of tin platff throughout the country. They have, therefore ( sent out a circular asking consumers of tin plates what the effect of the tariff has been on their business, and in response have received answers from most of the large consumers.

“For want of space not all of these answers can be published, but a selection is made which constitutes a fair average of their general tone, which shows pretty plainly what the effect of the increased tariff has been upon the people who cut up in their business four-fifths of the entire quantity of tin plate used in the United States.” Fairport, N. Y.: “We used 4,800 boxes year. Payment of McKinley duty required additional capital. In some branches increased cost of our goods compelled us to cut down wages of laborers to meet popular prices. In making baking powder cans increased cost of article and unwillingness on the part of our customers to pay increased price caused us to lose the business of some of the best of our customers. After two or three months of experimenting with others they returned to us, having learned that we were not trying to rob them, but w?re, like others, only asking a fair prictf oh the trnsis of the government making us pay heavier taxes for the privilege of doing business. We have jeftn heavy exporters of canned goods, but we feat that we will have to give up or greatly reduce our export trade. In the English and Scotch markets especially, Canada Is selling at less than goods cost us. Canada pays no duty. Rebate does not place us on an equality. On fifty cases of pears rebate would not pay expenses of obtaining it. We pay duty on a full sheet of tin. The rebate does not cover waste in cutting round blanks.” Salem, Ohio;

“We have substituted galvanized Iron for tin in consequence of the increased cost of the latter.” Adrian, Mich.: “To increase the cost of No. 3 cans, the size most used by us, an average of 60 cents per hundred, and other sizes in proportion. We are not extensive packers, but the cans used by us last season cost over $4,000 more than the same quantity would have cost in 1889, This loss must be borne by us or by the producers of fruits and vegetables, or both. The canning industries have been greatly crippled by the increase of duty on tin plate. We have used the same help as before, but paid less wages per day." Indianapolis, Ind.: “To reduce our profits to such a narrow margin as to cause the desire to have our capital invested in some other enterprise, or abandon our present business altogether." From a Boston packing house: “Packed in our East Boston factory in 1890, 56,000 cases; in 1891, 35,345. Falling off, 20,655; decrease of help, twentyfive weekly hands. Gutter pipe, etc. ” Cambridgeport, Mass.: “To increase the cost a dollar a box instead of a natural decrease of some 30 cents a box. Not nearly so much business in our line is done as there should be. Results: Fewer hands employed, consumers paying more than they ought, manufacturers not making fair profits. Decrease of help, seven hands.” From Buffalo:

“Increased cost of tin plates, diminished profits, the substitution of other materials for tin plates, a good deal of misrepresentation and demoralization.” From a Boston can factory: “That business has decreased some on account of the higher prices of goods.” Baltimore: “To add the duty to the cost of the goods, and necessarily we have sold at a higher price than if there had been no increase. ” Philadelphia: “ Unfavorable, increased cost of material; and not being able to advance I prices, wo are out the difference. The i tendency is also to use inferior materials and decrease wages, and in various ways to make up.” Philadelphia: “To advance the price of tin about one dollar per box, with the same cost of packing, and goods selling at same prioe as before the increase of duty. ” Worcester, Mass.: “That we are doing less business. Decrease of help, three hands. Syracuse, N. Y.: “To add the cost of the tin to the cost of the lanterns. Syracuse, N. Y.: “To cut down my trade in roofing tin more than one-half, making a considerable loss to my income, and, more than this, has forced a number of my smaller customers to retire from the business and to seek other occupations. I am not able to purchase roofing tin of American manufacture at marketable prices, only high-priced goods being offered—too high for the average consumer. ” Baltimore: “To increase the oost of production.” Buffalo, N. Y.: “Decreasing consumption; economic labor; smaller margins. ” New York City: “Compelled us to raise our prices."

Baltimore: “Quite a falling off in the demand for cans, owing to the increased duties, which have advanced the cost of tin plates about $1.30 per box. We have had to decrease our help about one-fifth.” Greenwich, N. Y.: “Very much against us. We are running a smaller force, and will have to put up less goods than formerly. Decrease of help, three hands." Northville, Mich.; “To reduce our profits. We cannot charge any more for our condensed milk than we did before. We are taxed to help others establish the manufacture of tin plate in the United States. Our output is small yet. We are paying SI,OOO a year to help others. The decline in sugar has helped us about SI,OOO a year, so between the two it is a stand-off. ” Cleveland, Ohio; “To Increase the cost of our goods by the extra duty.” Detroit, Mich.: “In previous years our business has increased about 50 per cent, each year, and last year only about 15 per cent., entirely owing to the increase of prices made necessary by the duties.” Philadelphia: “To lessen profits by increase of cost In materials. We have had to decrease our help irregularly.’’ Louisville, Ky.: “Decrease in the sales on terne plates. Many persons refusing to pay the advanced prices due to the tariff. Decrease of help, five per cent. ” Subletts, Va.“To make us pay $230 more for 215 boxes of tin.”

Wages and Labor Cost.

It was Henry Clay who clearly pointed out the fact, which modern protectionists seem to have lost sight of, that low wages did not mean low cost of production. As an instance of this fact he cited the case of Asia and Europe. Wages in Europe, he said, were many times higher than wages in Asia, but, because of the great use of machinery in Europe and of the greater intelligence and skill of the workmen, particularly in Great Britain, manufactured articles, which require any considerable amount of labor, are manufactured “infinitely cheaper thun they can be manu* factured by the natural exertions” of the countless millions of unskilled, poorly paid and poorly fed laborers of Asia. The rapidly increasing use of machinery since Clay’s time has made this fact even more manifest now than it was then. It is the low-wage countries of the globe that supply the agricultural products and the raw materials of manfacture to the high-wage countries, and it is the high-wage countries that manufacture these raw materials into all kinds of articles—machinery, clothing, ships, furniture, farm and household

implements—with which to supply themselves and to sell back to these highwage countries. Hence, it would seem that if the tariff on manufactured articles is needed to protect labor, the countries most in need of such a tariff are the low-wage countries. This, in fact, is the rule. Italy, Russia, Spain, and the other low-wage countries of Europe are heavily protected against Great Britain, France, Germany, Belgium, and the other comparatively high-wage countries of Europe. Great Britain, the United States, France, Germany, and Belgium, the high-wage countries of the earth, are the greatest exporters of manufactured articles. There is but one explanation—it is cheaper to make costly articles where wages are high than where they are low. This has been demonstrated in detail by many statistical experts. Edward Atkinson has recently given us' a long list of articles for which the laijof cost to manufacture is if§6 IP the United States than in any country of Europe, e.g., a pair of shoes which it costs 58 cents to make in Massachusetts costs from 60 to 75 cents to make in foreign countries of Europe. He expresses the opinion that the labor cost in nine-tenths of the manufactured articles is less in the United States than in Europe. To the question that may be asked here by protectionists, “Why, then, do we not supply more of the manufactured articles of the world than Great Britain?" it may be replied our failure to do so is not because of the difference in labor cost of the produot, but because of the excessive taxes levied by the United jjtates upon the raw materials and the machinery of production. Remove this tax and the restrictions upon our shipping, and we will soon be exporting more manufactured articles than Great Britain. In view of these facts let us notice the woolen industry in this country. | During the last thirty years we have I had a duty on woolen goods that has averaged nearly 90 per cent. The ostensible purpose of about half of this duty has been compensatory —that is, to reward the manufacturers for that part of the cost of raw wools, which is due to the duty on wool—and of the other half to make good the difference in labor cost between this country and Great Britain.

One of the first effects of this heavy “protection” which we will observe is the decline in the number of woolen mills in the United States from 2,391 in 1870, to 1,190 in 1880, and to 1,312 in 1890. The value of the goods manufactured increased from $267,252,913 in 1880 to $338,231,109 in 1890. It is apparent then that the exorbitant duty on i raw materials tends to drive out small ■ capitalists and to leave the business in ' the hands of monopolists. The next effect has been to make the price of woolen goods in the United States nearly double what they would have j been without such protection. This ad- ! ditional cost to the 65,000,000 of people j in the United States is not now less ! than $100,000,000 per year. But even j with these high prices the woolen industry cannot be said to be in a flourishing condition —the increased value of the \ product being only about equal to the increase in population since 1880. The weight of taxation upon the raw materials is sufficient to prevent the growth of the indnstry even with these exceptionally high prices. Another curious effect is that, while the duties have increased the price of raw material for manufacture, it has not apparently increased the price of domestic wools. As pointed out by John Sherman in 1883, the price of domestic wools declined from 51 cents in 1867 to 46 cents in 1870; 43 cents in 1876 to 36 cents to 40 cents in 1883. But that part of the tariff to which we here wish especially to call attention is the part levied for the benefit of labor. Under the McKinley bill this part varies fronx3o_to 50 per cent., and will average about 45 per cent. As this duty is levied to cover the difference of labor cost in this and other countries, it may be well to inquire what this difference actually is. The Hon. Carroll D. Wright, Commissioner of Labor, has for some time been making special investigations into the cost of textiles in Europe and America. Advance sheets, showing this cost, were prepared for and used by the Hon. A. B. Montgomery in his speech in the House March 11, 1892. As explained by Commissioner Wright, the labor cost in this country includes all the processes of manufacture from the raw wool, while in Great Britain and on the continent of Europe it often does not include all of these processes—the cost of spinning the yarn and dyeing and finishing the cloth often being done in separate factories. Yet, notwithstanding this fact, an Inspection of the labor cost of making the 217 samples—ls 2 from our own and

85 from foffltga factories— makes it evif dent that this difference is very slight. For example, the labor coat in fourteen samples of cashmere on the continent of Europe ranges from 15.20 per cent, to 22.08 per cent., the average being about 19 per cent.; of forty-six samples from the United States from 17.36 per cent, to 31.20 per cent., the average being 24 per cent. The labor cost for six samples of worsted goods made in Enrope varies from 12.92 per cent, to 43.11 per cent., the average being about 22 per cent.; of thirty-six samples from the United States from 13.49 per cept. to 37.57 per cent., the average being about 21 per i cent.; the labor cost in seven samples of ladies’ dress goods from the United States varies from 15.41 per cent, to 23.54 per cent., the average being 20 per cent.; of five samples from Europe from 13.02 per cent, to 29.31 per cent!, the average being 23 per cent As, however, no two samples from this and from any foreign country are exactlv alike, it is impossible to rely strictly upon these comparisons. It is, however, safe to assert that the difference, if any exists, in the labor cost of textiles in this and in foreign l countries does not exceed 6or 8 per cent. There is, then, no just basis for a protection of more than 10 per cent, to cover this difference, and the 45 per cent, granted by McKinley for this purpose is an outrage upon the American people. In the Springer free wool bill an ad valorem duty of, from 25 to 35 per cent, is left on manufactured woolens. This, as Congressman Montgomery shows, gives an average of 12 per cent, more protection than the entire labor cost in the production of 165 home-manufactured articles covered by Wright’s table. This would then, except for the tariff tax on machinery, put our woolen manufacturers on an equal footing with those of Europe and leave them a margin of about 25 per cent, for profits. The claim by thoughtless protectionists that this 35 per cent tariff would leave our woolen manufacturers unprotected and drive half of them out of the country is utterly without foundation.

McKinley’s Account Continued.

The first week in May was a busy one for our accountant who has charge of the work of registering strikes, wage reductions, trusts, etc., that occurred during the week, and of crediting the McKinley bill with the wage advances made and the trusts killed, and of debiting it with the wage reductions, lockouts and trusts formed. -On May Day the workingmen all over the country attempted to recover the reductions that naturally occur during the year in wages, and, if possible, to gain a little. Hundreds of strikes for this purpose occurred this year, but these are not taken yito account. Even without these, the account on the debit side is so long that it will have to be abbreviated for publication. Strange to say, there is again little or nothing upon the credit side of the bill. The few slight reductions in hours or advances in wages gained by the May-day strikes have all occurred in the non-protected industries carpentry, stone-cutting, plumbing, etc. April 30. To a trust composed of gas fixtures. Some of the manufacturers alleged to belong to it deny that such a trust has been formed, but admit that prices have been raised. They say that the increased cost of material and higher duties compelled them to advance prices. May 1. To a report that the great safe manufacturing houses of Herring, Hall and Martin have formed a trust with a capital of $3,300,000. The . combined earni.ngs jhe three companies in 1891 was $316,790. ‘—- May 4. To a reduction in wages in the woolen mills of Jas. G. Knowles & Co., of Wilmington, Delaware. The wages of the weavers were reduced from 75 to 70 cents per out. As this was the second reduction since February, when the price was 80 cents per cut, about twenty of the one hundred employes struck, and the mills have shut down. The wages of the men have averaged about $35 per month.

May 5. Prominent leather-tanning firms in and around New York City have called a meeting to consider a proposition not to wet any hides for a period of three months. If the market has not broadened by that time the tanners will continue to curtail the output until it does and prices can be raised. May 5. To an increase from 1J to li cents per pound in the price of sisal twine made by the cordage trust. The dealers who are compelled to buy sisal twine must sell at not less than 12 cents per pound. Those who were fortunate enough to place their contracts before the National Cordage Company gained complete control can make a lower price. Only about one-fiftieth of what will be needed is now in the hands of dealers. Jobbers are completely out, and will be compelled to pay cordage prices. This means an extra expenditure of thousands of dollars to the farmers of the country. May 6. To an advance of fifty cents in the price of anthracite coal, made by the great coal trust, composed of the railroads who now control 75 per cent, of all the anthracite coal lands In Pennsylvania. This means a direct annual tax of $20,000,000 per year on the American people. While there is no tariff on anthracite coal, yet the tariff on bituminous coal, which competes with anthracite, is indirectly a benefit to this trust? If New England could get her supply of bituminous coal from Nova Scotia, and save about $1 a ton, the price of bituminous coal, at least along the Atlantic coast, would have to decline, and the price of anthracite would decline with it. May 6. To a reduction of 20 per cent, in the wages of the spidermakers at the Thompson-Houston Electrio Company’s factories in Lynn, Mass. The men suffered a 20 per cent, reduction two weeks ago, and have struck to resist the present reduction. May 6. To a report that an English syndicate has obtained options on about twenty of Kentucky’s largest bourbon whisky distilleries, that manufacture about 22,000,000 gallons a year—twothirds of Kentucky’s product. The syn- | dicate expects to limit production and to raise prices. Mr. Nathan Hoffheimer, a well-known New York speculator, who has just made $300,000 out of the Reading deal, has secured the options and negotiated the deal. He will be a large stockholder in this new trust. The “old brand” men, who have a market for all they can make, are the only ones who . refuse to enter the trust and sign a contract to curtail production more than 50 per cent.

The Wool Tax.

In an editorial article in the St. Louis Republic Congressman Wilson of West Virginia says: “The revenue from duties on wool and on woolen goods during the last fiscal year was over $40,000,000, which was more than one-fifth part of our entire customs revenue, and more than oneninth part of our entire revenue from taxation. There is only one subject of taxation that is more fruitful, and that is spirituous liquors.” Such taxation is the grossest possible violation of sound principles. It is a most onerous tax on one of the prime necessities of life, a tax which bears most heavily on the'' poor, and from which no man, woman or child can escape. By the manner of its imposition it compels the people to pay not only the $40,000,000 which goes to the Government, but a much greater sum which goes to the domestic producers of woolen goods who are “protected” in advancing prices by the heavy taxes of the McKinley law.—Pittsburg Post/

GAY SUMMER GOWNS.

THEY ARE USEFUL AS WELL AS ORNAMENTAL. The Ribbon Buh Promises to Be Much Affected This Season—Toilets for Garden Parties and Outdoor Fetes—Stylish Reception Costume. New York Better.

OOD sauce, says an old proverb, will save a poor dinner, and it is iWT' probably quite as >. true that you can I [HU make a stylish tjjfi/i- gown out of or'ML f ; dinary material if ■-rA*' you will only trim it artistically, writes our . New York correspondent. We —1 “ trim our speech ,l;. with flowery and complimentary h*.' * language, and it seems only logleal that we should make our

attire ornamental as well as useful. It is money well expended, for if the dressreformers ever succeed in dressing us all alike it will be a life-long puzzle for us to get at the characters of our fellow creatures. It is not the gown that a woman wears, but the style in which it is trimmed that tells us who and what she is. A woman might be able to conceal her feelings and control her tongue, but she would be sure to betray herself by the garniture of her attife. The length of a ribbon and the style in which a bow is tied often speak louder than words. s With the near approach of summer this question of appropriate garniture becomes an important one, and on the subject of sashes alone I might say a great deal. All kinds are sure to be popular, not only such as conform to the Watteau patterns but those which with their short ends and irregular loops are set either on the right or left. The ribbon sash, too, promises to be very much affected, the wider ones being wound around the figure twice or three times, then drawn down to one side and finished with a single loop or a long narrow slide or buckle. For a long waist a soft jongee sash is always extremely becomng, only great care must be observed in draping it so as to give it gracefully careless folds, fastening it with a simple knot and two ends. In my initial illustration I set before you a very charming sash effect. The gown may be made up in any woolen material with silk of the same shade. The right front of the corsage is double, the outer portion be-

STYLISH WALKING DRESS.

ing cut as indicated and ornamented with a bias rever running to a point at the shoulder seam. The cuffs are in the turned-back style and, there is a large* bow of silk gauze at the neok, the ends of which descend jabot-style, passing under the rever. The silk scarf is tied around the waist and has fringed ends. My second illustration pictures a stylishly designed walking dress, which may be made hp in any of the popular fabrics of the season. It is cut princess, and and the back pieces, the seams of which start from the shoulder, are cut very bias at the top. and they make up the train. As the side which crosses has no seam in the middle of the skirt, it is sewed to the other until within fifteen inches of the waist line; after that it is buttoned. In order to make the tabs properly, you should make use of a card pattern, basting the outlines and lining the material with muslin. The tabs should be edged with bengaline, and so also should the bottom of the skirt. The trimmings of the sleeves should be included in the inside seam, and the style of the straight collar should conform to the buttoned tab pattern. With the coming in of the poetio month of June, it is only to be expected that the sumjner girl should busy herself with thoughts of toilets for garden parties and outdoor* fetes, which call for gossamej gowns in soft tones, set off with ribbon garniture. The coming season gives sure promise of a long series of such fetes; in fact, it will be the effort of those who entertain to take advantage of sunshiny day, for what woman doesn’t feel that she looks her best when embowered in green or sit-

DRESS FOR GARDES PARTY.

ting like Queen Titania on a flo'wery bed with musk roses in her hands. As the garden party and the lawn party are to be the fashionable style of outdoor fete, my lady of Castle Caprice will be expected to arrive on the scene wearing a gown that will put the very flowers to blush, so delicate are the tones, so dainty the fabrics, so ar-

tißtlc the make-ups of outdoor toilets this season. In my third picture you will find a charming gown for an outdoor fete. The material is white orepe with multicolored satin stripes. In selecting the moire ribbon for trimming, you may either choose a tone harmonizing with the ground material or with one of the stripes. The dress should be lined with satinette, and the bottom of the skirt be finished with a pleated flounce of the material, with rosettes set as indicated and forming the head of the flounce. The front and back of the corsage is pleated. There is but one seam, which is placed under the arm. The lining of the corsage should be carefully fitted and boned before the crepe tissue is laid on. The dress hooks at the back. The neck and arm-holes are nofrcyt out until the material has been completely adjusted. The collar forms part of the pleated front and back. The traces start from the corselet, and have bows on the shoulders,and, although the corselet is very wide in front, it diminishes to a point at the back, where the braces meet and end in a bow. It is made of the moire ribbon, and should be boned. At the back the long ends fall to the bottom of the skirt. They are of one piece with the braces, and pass under the corselet, which is set off with a frill of the material, under which, at the front, the moire ribbons are placed bias on the front breadth. The puffed sleeves are ornamented vrtth ribbon

RECEPTION COSTUME.

bracelets, and the deep cuffs are trimmed with bows, as indicated. My fourth illustration represents a lovely reception dress of emerald-green bengaline. This gown should be lined with silk or some light stuff of the same shade. The skirt has a band instead of a belt, and at the bottom between the stuff and the lining there is a false hem of muslin eighteen to twenty inches in height. All the breadths are bias. The corsage passes under the skirt and closes invisibly at the front. It is made over a fitted lining', and is set off by a silk muslin yoke, beneath which you remove the lining, and garniture with a bertha of guipure or other lace ewed on with reversed seam. There are no darts in the material. It is pleated on the lining. The back pieces are slightly pleated at the waist and have a seam in the middle. A ruche of pink ribbon is placed above the lace bertha on the right. The belt consists of velvet leaves laid on a tulle foundation and edged with pearl chenille fringe. The sleeves are made very large at the top. No summer girl can pronounce her outfit complete unless it contains a jacket of some sort, and if she has a pretty figure she will never consent to hide it under a shapeless coat, for the .summer girl, no matter how frivolous and thoughtless she may appear to be in matters of sentiment, when it comes to the practical concerns of life will be found extremely long-headed; She knows that men are coy and beauty fleeting, and she also knows that there is no time like the present, for who can tell whether the same fish will be in fashion’s pond the next season, especially if some sister drops a golden hook in these waters. Therefore, now is the time for the skillful mother to drop a fashion fly in front of a matrimonial trout. He is pretty sure to rise to it. Some very stylish jackets have the fronts, cut away and others have a close, high vest, braided thickly, or the fronts are turned back and braided and the Vest is plain and fastened with frogs or barrel buttons. Fine silky vicuna in warm tone of brown sets off delightfully the tints of the skirt. Usually fronts are braided from the bust down, and the back is finished to correspond. In my last picture you see represented

FOR AN OUTDOOR FETE.

a natty little jacket in white cloth, with a collar of gray surah. The dress material is a black and pale gray striped pekin, the gray stripe having applique velvet designs in pink and dark green; the bonnet is of white pleated crepe de chine, dark green small leaves and a big butterfly. No doubt there will Bo many to affect the mannish attire again this season, a style of outdoor dress in which the English women fairly revel. And the fact is, the jacket bodice opening on a real shirt front relieved by a deep sash is very becoming to the redcheeked, robust girl who always has an air of being half-minded to walk over the bodies of her frail sisters. For this style of girl, the 60-called Eton coat is well adapted! It is simply a basqueless corsage with broad lapels opening on a blouse or surah shirt. It is well suited for rough wear, when boating, picnicking, or tramping. The straight collar and four-in-hand tie go with it. In the way of headgear the summer girl bids fair to get quite back to the days of her great grandmother, as the very names, “Mother Hubbard,” “Mother Goose," “Queen Anne,” and “Welsh Peasant” indicate. The Mother Hubbard is a faithful copy of the head-cov-ering worn by that pleasant dame of our nursery days, the crown inclining backward, rising in a narrow oval peak to the height of five or six inches, with a brim of curled edge tipped down in front and curled up at the back. This unique model looks charming In beigecolored Milan straw, the brim faced with a welt of velvet in beige color, a welt of velvet around the crown forming a knot at the front which hold an Alsatian bow of French crepe in straw color, and a great wide flat tow of straw-colored velvet at the back. Nobody has any trouble about living a beautiful Christian life, who tries to do it one day at a time.