Democratic Sentinel, Volume 16, Number 16, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 6 May 1892 — SOME SPUING STYLES. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

SOME SPUING STYLES.

NO SHOWY MATERIALS IN STREET DRESSES. The Tailor-Made. EspeAaUy Affect Low Tone*—Thin Material* Will Be In Demand—Foulard* and Crepe* de Chine Popular with Young People. New York Letter.

AZSk CERTAIN sashionable tailor of I*/ th l ® city, being remonstrated with ’iffl for charging such an exorbitant ft/ price for a pair of Ff SSI trousers, replied Vu Zjjfl ffl that there was no help for it, as only TO, _ every other pair ,lw^ = ’ wa 8 P a id for, writes our New ‘ York correspondIf cnt - Biß a ®e- ; $ vere commentary 5 « upon hitman vanity, but I opine that W?il you would have iAIWWa h difficulty in finding at a wornan who, in spite of her love o f dress, would be

willing to strut about in plumes acquired so dishonestly. True, there Is a 1 legend that a certain dashing society voman, when threatened with an action at law for a dress ordered four years previously, replied: “How ridiculous! I wore the dress out years ago!" April showers have brought May flowers with a vengeance, and the summer girl bids fair to require a table all to herselfdn order that she may wear her hat into the dining-room. But street dresses show no tendency to run to showy materials. The tailor-mades, especially, affect low tones, such as dove-gray, slate, suede, cuir, and putty. I notice that there is always an elegant simplicity about these street gowns. For instance, the bottom of the skirt has three or four rows of stitching and there is on the underside a bias of velvet to hold it up. For young people foulards and crepes de chine figured with all sorts of flowers will be favorite summer fabrics. There will be a craze for thin materials, you may depend upon it. If you are fond of something a bit eccentric, you will find it in my Initial

illustration, a very pretty negligee made up in Turkish stuff. You cut the breadths bias at the top, in order to form the pleats and train, and the sides are also bias above the waist. You don’t make the usual gores, but substitute very small ones at the waist, and there must be material enough on the right to make the fold over. Cut the left side as usual, and finish with a velvet rever. On the right the rever is sewed on with reversed seam. The cascade in jabot style may be of surah or crepe de chine. There is a straight collar, and pocket flaps and cuffs are of velYtt- ' ' - Some doubting souls might deny that there is such a thing for a woman as a sunny side of 50, but I need only instance the Princess of Wales, who still enjoys the reputation of being a handsomer woman than any one of her daughters. Certainly she is one of the best dressed women of this day and generation, and her taste is wonderfully correct. True, she has kept her slender figure, and that gives her a great advantage. In my second illustration I set before you a very handsome costume for the woman on the sunny side of 50— either side, for both sides of a hill may be sunny; it depends where the suff'ts. This gown is a black duchess satin, trimmed with jet and lace. The lace flounce, ornamented with bows of broad ribbon, extends around -to the back breadth. The front of the skirt is set off its full length with a strip of yellow silk covered with lace. The corsage is pointed, front and back, and has pleated basques of lace. At the back the basques fall scarf-like to the bottom of the skirt. The corsage is covered with jet embroidery, and there is a collarette of lace arranged like a bertha and set off with a jabot of yellc*.’crepe de chiae, below which there is a plastron of le.ce running to a point at the waist. The sleeves have deep lace cuffs. The princess form, either complete or ending with a bodice over blouse effects,

still holds its place of favor with young folks, especially when they have those slender figures now so popular. It does seem ridiculous to call a figure or a face fashionable, but,we must chouse a type for the summer girl, otherwise she will lose half her charm. In my third illustration you will find pictured a pretty house dress in woolen material run with ribbon. Of course it must be made princess. You make the back and sides all of one piece. Their seams extend to

the bottom of the skirt and are very bias. The fron -l < is only partly made Into the form of corsage and skirt, the corsage being composed of two parts, the yoke and blouse portion. The long flat lower sleeves are also run with the ribbon, and so are the yoke and collar. In order to keep the lining from showing in case the blouse were disarranged, you should bind the side seams with a strip of the material. The corsage closes on the side. On the right of the yoke there are small bows of the ribbon. To secure clinging effects, skirt foundations are discarded, nor is it necessary with woolens that can hold themselves up, to line the whole skirt; a deep false hem is sufficient. Nor is the balayeuse made any leoger of muslin, preference being given to plain silk flounces of the same color as the skirt, scalloped with a pinking machine. The tendency is still to lessen the fullness of the skirt at the bottom, without disturbing the train, but care must be taken not to get it too scant, for the effect is very bad. I don’t see so many velvet jackets, the woolen sack matching the

color of the dress being greatly affected. It should have broad revers, and open on a jabot or chemisette of silk gauze in a bright color, to lighten up the street costume. Gauzy effects are to be one of the modish fads of the coming season, which, by the way, are very becoming to the girl of ffisthetieal type, giving her the dreamy and unsubstantial look which many prefer to the plump and rosy style of beauty. What with tulle gowns, gauze wraps and chiffon trimmed hats, the summer girl will seem at times to be on this earthy but not of it. In my fourth illustration you will find pictured the appropriate style in which to wear one of these filmy wraps entwined around the neck. The hat, too, is prettily trimmed with chiffon. In spite of threats of pouf and panier, it is only too evident that the clinging bell or umbrella skirt is to hold its own, notwithstanding its being such a trying style for women who are inclined to be stout, and theie seem to be hosts of them nowadays. The American woman no longer fits the type to which all foreigners think she belongs, namely, the tall, thin, angular and sharp-featured type. It may be that she has abandoned the puritanical of diet, and hence the change in the national figure. Anyway, the clinging bell skirt calls for appropriate foot trimming, either narrow or broad box pleated ruches, Vandyke flounces, with fillings of lace in cascades, old-fashioned ruckles, made by three runnings of a band of material with the raw edges turned inward, or plain bars of velvet topped and edged with plush and covered with lace. Fancy trimmings, too, are much In vogue, such as imitation feather, pleated velvet, passementerie braids and jet, and there is no tendency to mix these styles of trimming. In my last Illustration you will find a correct delineation of a very stylish afternoon costume, the bottom of the skirt of which is in a striped woolen material, having one of the pleated velvet ruchings around its border, imparting a very refined air to the gown. The skirt must have the requisite glove-fit

over the hips, and the back breadth be cut so bias as to prevent any show of pleats. The velvet corsage has a round yoke, which should be trimmed with passementerie. The back pieces flare somewhat below the waist. They have no seam, and are made full enough to for:« a box-pleat in the middle, and must be trimmed with the same galloon as the fronts and basques of the jacket. The pleated front of the waist should be made ,up over a buckram lining. The hat worn with this charming spring toilet is of black lace, with bows of yellow and lilac ribbon, and with a sprig of lilac for aigrette. You can’t go amiss in ordering your summer dresses made up with vests and waistcoats, sometimes made full and covered below the waist with lace or net bibs, or else plain silk vests, fastening invisibly on one side and set off with ornaments set band or brace-wise. The corselet, too, accentuating, as it does, the wasp-like smallness of the fashionable waist, is sure to be extremely popular. I saw a very stylish skirt and corselet made up in changeable green silk over a nun’s waist of white silk gauze. The effect was a bit eccentric, but in summer modes are apt to run a bit wild. A stranger who tarried at the house of Jacob Prinkey, a rich farmer living neaz UnioaKwtt, Pa,, told how for three nights he had dreamed of a tree on the farm that was filled with money. Prinkey recognized the tree from the description and cut it down, when heaps of shining coin fell out to the amount of $4,000. The stranger could not carry his share. Prinkey gave him paper for it and as he rode away pressed him to come again. The next day an expert pronounced the coin to be a fine quality of pewter. The inexplicable thing about this tale is the idiocy of Mr. Prinkey. A German physician. Dr. Krug, makes a nutritious cake for cattle out of wood fiber by chemically transforming the telluloae of the wood into grape sugar.

BLACK SATIN AND LACE.

CLOTH BUN WITH BIBBOX.

GAUZY EFFECTS

AFTERNOON COSTUME.