Democratic Sentinel, Volume 15, Number 48, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 18 December 1891 — WORN IN WINTER. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

WORN IN WINTER.

FASHIONS THAT ARE SUITABLE TO THE SEASON.

It Is More Difficult to Make a Stylish Appearance In Winter Costumes than It Is In Spring:, Summer or Autumn Gowns —A Muffled-Up Look Is Death to Grace aud Style. Cool-Weather Costumes.

TRUE It Is that the fashionable woman finds it more difficult to make a graceful and stylv ish appearance in ’ her winter costames than she does in her spring, J summer, or autumn gowns, lays the fashion writer, and the season is obvious. The mo- * ment that eager ar.d nipping air, of which Shakspeare speaks, calls for heavy wraps, V fur-lined cloaks \ or fur - trimmed i \ jackets, there is \\\ at once a noticable f\ \\ tendency to sacrij[ \ ifee grace an d I I \ style in order to secure comfort—a word, by the way, J' that hasn’t its - exact synonym in

any other language, and I mast say that it is an extremely difficult thing to feel entirely comfortable on a real oldfashioned winter's day without assuming a muftled-up look. Now, a mutfledup look means death to all grace and style. If you want to know how you look when you look muffled up, 1 might say observe the aristocratic pug dog witli his blanket on and his woebegone countenance. I am well aware that many young girls, inclined to be embonpoint, trifle with their health during the winter season in order to keep style and comfort, so far as possible, hand in hand. / These foolish virgins forget that natu/e has seta most sensitive thermometer in the center of their faces, to wit, their noses, and I would respectfully suggest to them that, no matter how lovely their winter costumes may be, a rod nose with indigo lips and a generally pinched lookisquite enough to rob the most beautiful face in the world of its charms. Of two evils choose the less, and so it seems to me that it is better to make almost any sacrifice, including grace and stylo, and keep the blood on each side ot one's nose rather than in its tip. But Ith nk that by a little intelligent thought on this matter you may bo easily ablo to hit upon some style of street gown that will keep you perfectly comfortable and

at tho same time savo you from that dreaded mu filed up appearance. My attention was attracted the other day by a wiut'r garment which appeared to mo to very nearly, if not quite, deserve the title of novelty, it was a long velvet easaque, made from a singlo piece of tho material, while its collar and sleeves were fashioned entirely of feathers I say entirely, but in reality tho feather tips were sown upon a Very gtrong but soft and pliable material, ftptfbly casque be either too startling a novelty for y6u, so in my initial illustration I set beforo you something very much of the same shape and style, only it is made up in a less originmil manner. This stylish garment may be made in velvet of any kind or color to suit your particular figu.o and co'oring. The corsage closes in the middle with hooks aud eyes, and to it are sewed long basuucs. Tho front sides have fevers sewe<\ to them with reversed seams. Tho casaiuc may bo embroidered in anyway that taste may dictate. The sides have one dart In order to keep tho easaque from wrinkling, you must add a band of silk of tho same color as the velvet to the left side, reaching down to the, waist and serving to hook tho right side to the left side. In front the basques flare somewhat. The garment must be trimmed with some becoming fur. In my second illustration you will find represented on tho left a very stylish street costume in gray cloth. The skirt is made up on an alpaca foundation, having a deep false hem and a drawingstring In the back breadth. The skirt is slightly draped and finished at the bottom with a bias of gray velvet, which must be lined with muslin. This band is sowed with reversed seam with hollow ploata The front breadth is gored

so as to secure a proper fit on the hips. Under the jacket you wear a blouse of gray silk with a leather belt The fronts of the jacket arc double, and it is ornamented with an open pelerine The fronts of the under basques are adjusted to the figure and meet at the front The

upper ones have a dart, and, as my Ulna tration indicates, are cat to a point and sewed upon velvet basques gathered below the waist. The points are bordered with velvet The pelerine is gathered at the neck: straight collar, leg-o’-mut-ton sleeves and cuffs. With thl9 costume is worn a very pretty gray felt, narrow brim and flat crown. The crown is turned up at the back and set off with a bow. An aigrette of gray feathers is placed in front in the center of a bow, the two ends of which encircle the crqwn. At the back there is a pearl-headed pin. The figure on the right in my second illustration pictures an embroidered mantle, the materal being a black slcilienne. The skirt is joined to the corsage, and has folds at the back. The fronts have square tabs. This garment is ornamented with feather trimming and embroidered with silk twist and pearls. The Marie Stuart collar is garnitured with feathers, as shown in the illustration. Completing this costume there is a stylish velvet capote in emerald green. It is made with a pastrycook’s crown, beneath which there is a torsade of pink veivet forming five coques at the front Coques of tho same ribbon arc placed at the back with an aigrette and pink strings. Many fashionable ladies prefer cloth mantles to velvet and plush ones, or e'se cloth mantles with velvet in combination. With cloth there is a greater call for rich garniture, but on the other-

hand you may attain more stylish effects by using this more youthful material Velvet has a dignity about it that tits it pre-eminently for the dowager’s wear, hence young people should not be too prone to mufflo up too much in this material of pomp and state. In my third illustration you will find pictured a very becoming cloth mantle in beige cloth. • The pelerine is in tobaccobiown plush. At the back there is a smoked effect. The pelerine is gathered at the shoulders and is lined with silk of the same color. This mantle may be trimmed with black fur or with any longhaired fur. The long jacket lends itself most adm'rably for winter purposes, uniting warmth and style. You see it made up in a thousand different ways, but I think you’ll search far and near before you hit upon a mere thoroughly becoming and refined garment than the one 1 picturo for you in my fourth i lustration. It is made In a marine-blue vicuna and has double fronts, tho under ones being richly braided and closing in tho middle with hooks. The outside fronts are. as you see, longer, and are finished with revers and a rolling collar in sealskin or plush. The fronts are fitted with fastenings, so that the jacket may be worn completely closed in cold weather, and if you belong to that class tritely denominated frozen turnips, you have only to line the whole garment with fur or silk wadding. Jn my last illustration you will find represented a pretty and withal serviceable winter garb for a young miss. It is made up in wood-brown vicuna trimmed with Persian lamb The jacket is not only lined with silk but has also a flannel inlay, and with it is worn a silk blouse of the same shade as tha cloth, belted in with a narrow leather bolt. The plastron is sowed into tho

seam at tho right shoulder, but is buttoned on both sides. The epau'ets are continued around the back in the manner of a short pelerine. In front the skirt is slit up into tabs, which are trimmed as shown with the fur. Tho hat has a crown in the same material and is trimmed with tho same fur as tho dress. Whenever the weather permits, and no doubt often when it forbids, you will see the popular shoulder capes, palatines and stoles. Muffs premise to be more reasonable as to size than they were last season. It seems too rfd'ciilous to aggravate tho evil of cold fingers by carrying about a muff too small to cover the hands. It wou'd be far more reasonable for the lady of fashion to revive that quaint old custom of carrying a live poodle about in <o!d weather to setve as a mutt', but the society for the prevention of cruelty, etc.., would soon put a stop to such a practice, no matter how picturesque, especially when the dog was dyed to suit the wearer’s complexion. Astrakhan will be a modish fur with which to trim an afternoon ccstume for visit ng or reception purposes. It goes well with cloth. One very becoming way to apply this trimming is to run three narrow rows of it around the bottom of the skirt and to run a single row around the cut-out of the bodice and so down to the waist, thus framing the embroidered plastron and producing a fine effect. There is a very handsome woo’en material with a rough surface simulating astrakhan which will be very popular for winter costumes. It looks V6ry well in gray or black. Senator Voorhefa attributes his Illhealth to the night sessions of the tfenato last winter.

STREET COSTUMES.

BEIGE CLOTH MANTLE.

STYLISH WINTER JACKET.

FUR-TRIMMED DRESS.