Democratic Sentinel, Volume 15, Number 44, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 20 November 1891 — PLUSH AND VELVET. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

PLUSH AND VELVET.

THE STYLE OF TRIMMING FOR STRfciiT COSTUMES. The Pelerine Cloak Is One of the itoit Modish Thing* of the Moment—How They Should Be Made and Trimmed— Will Be Blade Entirely in Astrakhan. Striking Street Style*.

k LUSH and velvet | are much used for / trimming street costumes this season, says* our New York correspondent, the plush boing of the kind known as tachete, that is, showing two co ors such as cream and maize, black and maize or blue and beige, but plain velvet, either piece or ribbon velvet, constitutes a very rich style of garniture. This style of trimming .must be applied / largely according to “ taste. There is no

laying down fixed rules, for what may be becoming to a slender person is often most unbecoming to a broad, stout figure. The velvet may be-applied as the garniture of yokes, ceintures, collars, cuffs or panels, or, in some cases, all of these are united, as shown in my initial figure. This Italian sleeve, very full and falling with deep cuffs, is not becoming to a short, stout arm; it accentuates the lack of length. As. the season progresses fur will be the ultra modish material for garniturfng cloth and velvet street costumes. In my second illustration you will find represented a charming promenade toilet in heliotrope cloth, garnitured with fur and With silk brandenburgs. The front width of the skirt is also trimmed with the fur and silk ornaments. The fronts of the jacket have pockets cut into the stuff, the openings/being trimmed with

the silk ornaments which must be a somewhat darker shade than the cloth. The fur may be otter or any dark fur. The front of the corsage buttons tj the jacket on the under side. The pelerine cloak is one of the most modish things of the moment. These garments are much longer than those which were worn last spring and reach half way down the skirt of the dress. If you ask me whether they are becoming or not I must answer: Itall depends. Some women look well under all circumstances, in fact, they can’t make guys of themselves if they try, but not so with others. They must be on their guard continually lest some cut, or make-up, or style of trimming, or color, or shade mar their good looks and rob them of their grace. This pelerine is a garment that may easily destroy a woman's grace of figure and the pleasing characteristics of her peculiar s;yle. Njw a long wrap, reaching quite to the feet, is ir. most cases a dressy and stylish garment for any woman, but not so this pelerine. They are neither one thing nor the other. They give one the appearance sometimes of having run short of stuff; and still, when made up in thick cloths in a shade that goes well with your coloring, and richly trimmed and lined with silk of some bright, warm, contrasting shade, they are lealiy

very stylish, but It all depends upon the wearer As the season advances you’ll see them made up entirely in astrakhan, which is now used merely for trimmingHowever, in order that you may be able to judge for yoursel', 1 set one of these pelerines before you in my third illustration. and a very stylish one it i-\ too, consisting of a velvet jacket with the pelerine in brocaded Himalaya. The jacket e.\tends about fifteen or eighteen inches below the waist line, aiidclo es in front with h' oks and eyes. The back and sides of the jacket are i u te hidden by the j.clerine. and need net therefore be made of velvet It Is quite necessary fi.st to complete the jacket portion of the garment before proceeding to drape tue cloth. In the draping, I should add. l.es the secret of a stylish effect, and the softness and su ipleness of the material lenders it well adapted for draping purposes. Care must be taken to simu ato a velvet yoke In draping. The cloth must be sewed to the epaulets and also at the back, but be made to fasten with a hook in front on the right side. Taking up now the question of a long mantle, I have to call your attention te

the figure on the left hand of my fourth illustration. Here you have a rich and stylish design for a long cloak which may be made up in' cloth or velvet This particular one is in velvet and well adjusted to the figure in the back, and falls in folds. In front the right side is fastened to the left with hooks. The front of this elegant garment is make in plastron style and is covered with feather trimming. There are revers with broad volants set in bretelle fashion. These last reach at the back also almost to the waist. The overlapping

front is edged with feather trimming This mantle may be lined with surah of a large plaid, dark ground, with light stripes. A feather muff of the same nature as the feather plastron completes this very stylish costume. The figure on the right in the same illustration pictures a neat street costume in tailormade ’ style, of almond color or in dark-green, the short paletot being double-breasted and having a surah or satin merveilleux lining of the same shade. If you should prefer to wear the jacket open, you have only io button each flap over the buttons of that side, thus imparting a natty and finished air to the garment. Tho sleeves are cl ose-fitting in the forearm, and have a row of small buttons on the outer seam. Oblique pockets open in the front The buttons may be of horn or tortoise shell. The dress bodice is finished with a white or yellow cloth vest running to a point at the wa’stline and fastening with small pearl buttons. A narrow leather belt is worn with this neat and practical gown, which is straight and plain in front and finished with pleats at the back. The foundation skirt may be made of serge or taffeta, must have a drawing string and be finished with a ruffle at the bottom and a satin ruffle on the inside. I have still another pelerine to show you. It is worn by the lady on the left of my last illustration and is intended for a young person. It may be made up in almond or fawn-colored cloth, and be trimmed with pearled passementerie, or embroidered with twist, or, if you prefer, in raised embroidery. The yoke must lie quite flat and be covered with tho motive chosen, which should be re-

peated on the fronts of the garment. The back seam is concealed under a pleat of the material. The pleats shown must not be attempted except with the aid of a dress form. A style and character are given to these pelerines by the addition of a handsome silk lining in a bright tone. The fitrure on the right sets forth a very elegant'promenade toilet in light-blue cloth, straight, plain skirt, with bouffant sleeves garnitured with passementerie from the elbows down. The corsage ends at the waist. With this stylish gown is worn a passementerie jacket of the form and style shown in my illustration. The lound felt hat worn with this costume is in a russet tone and is trimmed with feathers of two shades I assomenterie collars or ceinlures that may be worn with different costumes have become a necessity to the woman of fashion. The co'lars are high and flaring, with two points extending out on the shoulders and two tabs in iront, from which hang a shower of jet beads, and the ceintures have the same garniture. only in the case of the collars the jet shower is of even length, and with the ceinture it is pointed. In fact, jet persists in taking on greater and greater popularity; the only thing to avoid is the extra-large cabochons. These have a heavy look, and, besides, they have been run to death by this, that, and every one. A very pretty fichu may be made up in bunting embroidered with jet nailheads, and set off wi'th a ruffle of crepe de d ine. The bunting is cut voke-shape, pointed in front and rounded at the back.

The most unhappy period of marriage, according to French divorce statistics, is the period extending from the fifth to the tenth year. After that the figures drop rapidly. Only 28 per cent, of couples seek divorce between the tenth and twentieth years of unions. Only one pair in a hundred seeks to cut the knot lifter the period of over thirty and under forty years. Have you ever thought just how water puts out fire? The Popular Science Monthly says it acts in two ways, lowering the temperature of the burning matter, and by enveloping its parts in a way to exclude the atmosphere and exclude the oxygen of the air which keeps up the fire. If the men would take the marriage vow that is forced on women—that is, to love, honor and obey—and conscientiously live up to It, there would be less loating and more good clothes and victuals in every community.— Atchinsoa Globa.

FUR TRIMMED STREET DRESS.

VELVET JACKET AND CLOTH PELERINE.

LONG MANTLE AND TAILOR-MADE SUIT.

PELERINE AND PASSEMENTERIE JACKET.