Democratic Sentinel, Volume 15, Number 43, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 13 November 1891 — WRAPS ARE NOW WORN. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

WRAPS ARE NOW WORN.

THE NOVEMBER ATMOSPHERE BRINGS THEM ALL OUT. They Are'Made In All Lines of Woolen Stuffs, Velvet* and Plushes, and Sometimes in Combinations or Satin and Velvet—A Pretty Velvet lloiinet A Child’s Cloak, Etc. Feminine Adornment.

OVEMBER atmosphere has a crispness and a clearness which are very favorable to the display of soft, warm tints, writes Carrie Careless from New York. Nooneknows this better than the intelligent woman of fashion, who invariably adjusts the tones of her costumes to what she calls the “weather,” but which in reality means the light. Some gowns call for one sortof lightand some for another, and it is no small for the fashionable woman -to determine under

what conditions a gown will light up well. Novembor, too. has this peculiarity about It; it is pre-eminently the month for wraps, and this alone endears it to tho tall, slender woman who adores wraps. It may safe ybo said that the cape-shaped, high-shouldered mantle is now at the height of its popularity. They run in all lines of woolen stuffs, velvets aud plushes, and sometimes in combinations of satin and velvet One, for instance, of gray satin arid black velvet brocade, struck mo as very rich and stylish. It was embroidered In arabesques of steel and jet, and edited with a thick chenille fringe, eaeh strand of which was finished off by a gray silk ball and two or three steel beads. In my initial illustration you will find pictured a very pretty deep cape-shaped mantle In white cashmero, decorated with an applique design representing leaves in silver and dark olive green, the borders being of olive green velvet, outlined with silver. The high Henry IV. collar Is also in olive green velvet. The gown Is of o ive green faille, with half sleeves of white cashmere, embroidered In tho same way as the shoulder cape Round tho waist there Is a celnture of plain white satin, while running entirely arourd tho hem of the skirt there Is an embroidery of white leaves. Tho bonnet worn with this costume Is In olive green velvet, with black ostrich feathers and striped silk strings in white and olive green knotted behind, under the hair, and completes an ensemble of rare richness and elegance in good ta*te. In the matter of feminine headgear, I may say that a great deal of inauve is to

be worn this autumn, -and green also, and every tint or warm browns or chestnuts. For those who like a striking theater bonnet, crimson ve vet answers the purpose very well. it should be garnitured with irich aril aments arud laces. In the way -of trimming, f.al I bonnets will -show .a preference foT guipure •and Venetian lace, feathers, of course, and fur in some cases. My seoond iilustrartiiom set* forth a very pretty bonnet of pal* blue velvet, the crown being ornamented with graduated rows of brown appH jue. The velvet is (puffed high, both at the hack and in .tbe front, the strings being of pa'e blue satin ribbon. I should add that we on this side of the Atlantic are likely to feel the effect of the present rage in Paris for Russian gowns and Russian toques, and tlie latter, I can promise, will be qmlte sure to please those whose taste run to gaedy and altogether startling effects. The Russian toque is very becoming to a dark-haired and dark eyed woman It has a c'oth crown decorated in gold and green embroidery, the brim being of astrakhan. Not to overlook the little folks, I give in my third illustration a very pretty design for a child’s autumn cloak, a woolen stuff in a large checked pattern The garment is made loose in front and adjusted to the figure at the back. Lengthwise in the front sides there is one large pleat which is sewed to the lining at the lower edge of the cloak. The sides of the back below the waist line cross a little. They are fuller where they join the side seam and form two large pleats. The pelerine, like the cloak, has one large pleat in front and falls straight over the sleeves. At the back tiio pelerine is divided like the mantle itself. The same pleats must be made in the lining

as in the material itself, and there are pleats also at the neck. This stylish Tittle garment closes with horn buttons extending a few inches below the waist line. It is surprising how many delicate variations of the same valor are pro*

dneed nowadays. Black is no longer black, nor white white, and tho same may be said of the grays, lilacs, mauves and purples. No matter, how exacting a lady's complexion may bo, some becoming shade may be found by diligent searching: hence would I say to those contemplating new autumn or winter costumes: hurry slowly, and don’t decide until the very shade has been found. It may be that black lace over a heliotrope silk is what you need, or a pale gray may suit you best, or a gown of alternate stripes of mauve and white. An authority iu matters of feminino adornment insists that it always pays to give more for a becoming dress. Hasty choice usually results in a gown that one grows tired of in a few weeks, whereas a really bocoming dress is not thrown aside until it falls to pieces. Walking dresses continue to be mado up in two shades with line effect. A skirt of dark-green maybe beautifully set off by having a aoep hem, over which you lay an inch-wide band of pea-green cloth having Jet passementerie over it The upper part of the bodice is of groen velvet, and back and front there are bands of the pea-green cloth with tho same ornaments. By way of variety I give you in my fourth illustration a novel design for an interior costume, well adapted for a studio reception, at which one expects to meet with costumes not strictly in harmony with prevailing modes. This gown may be made up in a plain and figured stuff or in two shades of tho same material. The dress proper is made up with a crossed bodice, whilo the over part in princess form has broad rovers faced with the dress material. The ovordress is garnitured its full length with silk grelots. My attention was lately attracted by a charming indoor toilet in twp shades of

gray woolen stuff. It was made princess stylo on a foundation of a lighter gray, which served as plastron and tablier. There was a yoke of embroidery which was lined with silk or tho color of the stuff, and three bands of embroidery on the darker material, one on the basque, one on the bottom of the skirt and one midway. Cloth gowns have their plainness relieved by a vest of fancy pattern. Theso vests, or more properly speaking waistcoats, for they have lapels, pockots and backs of lining for all the world like the masculine garment, are particularly ■stylish, providod the fit be faultless, and the woman of fashion now has a number of theso fancy vests so tiiat she may make a change to suit her particular cast of thought or humor—a lively pattern when feeling in good spirits, a dull one when'Otherwise. Each tailor-mado is supposed to bate several vests of different patterns to go with it. The princess form soems to be quite popular, but tho front is invariably jacket form, fa l» ing ovor a tight skirt. You will be quite ■safe in ordering the jacket with loose sides, .provided the skirt toe t'ght and the vest glove-fitting, otiiorwlso not. There is a so a marked taste for'eorseiet bodices for evening wear, and you ■may rig up a very pretty evening costume .at a small outlay by a full toodloe in soft, silk of some bright color to be worn with a black skirt and a black corselet. Tho Tudor sleeves with puffs springing out.at the shoulder and elbow are very becoming to long arms. At this season of the Fear young people’s thoughts turn to all sorts of winter 'entertainments, from amateur theatricals to skirt and fiower dancs. Last season there w-ere some very pretty exbi■bitionsof fiower costumes at private and semi - public entertainments. Tulips, chrysanthemums, roses, hollyhocks, sun-

flowers, and hosts of others wero successfully simulated in siik or satin, and in some case* the imitations were qulto effective. Iho 1 ower made use of In the eo-tumes represented in my last illustration is tho carnation, which made up a very brilliant cost ime, the leaves going to form tho :klrt and the greoi calyxes hanging gracefully from the waist. Of course a cluster of tho natural flower must appear in tho corsage. With a little attention to artistic fitnec, these Cower costumes may bo used with admirable effect to heighten the par ticular style of beauty of each young person taking part in the dancing or post iring. There is no doubt tiiat jet garniture of all kinds wll be much i sed on winter dresses, but the huge cabochons have bpen somewhit overdone a d bee nnc rather vulgar.zed, so that in their stead you will see tiny beads and nailheads finely cut in facets. Jet spang es, too, laid closely one over til • other In unbroken lines forming large branching patterns, are genuine novelties. Another novelty is (he use of white cioth for trimming purpose*, parti uiarly for making vests, revers, cuffs and yokes. It is cut in bands, pinked out and laid under a fold of the material round the bottom of skirts, and you often sec an underbasque of white cloth,'both under and upper being cut in tabs. An excellent lotion for imparting a rosy glow to the cheeks by calling the blood to the surface consists of tincture of benzoin, 1 tablespoonful; rose water, 3 ounces. Apply to the cheeks daily. A harmless lotion for removing freckles Is as follows: Lemon Juice, 1 ounce; powered box ax, X drachm; sugar. X drachm.

STYLISH VELVET BONNET.

CHILD'S CLOAK.

STUDIO COSTUME.

DESIGNS FOR FLOWER COSTUMES