Democratic Sentinel, Volume 15, Number 40, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 23 October 1891 — FASHION--FRIVOLITY. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

FASHION--FRIVOLITY.

THEY ARE NOT AT ALL ANALOGOUS. Women Who Dread Fa*hlonable Life—An Existence Filled with Task*. Cares, and Responsibilities—How the Fashionable World Enjoys Its Country Seat. For Women to Read.

A A O.ST people have An an idea that bcM” A cause fashion and .frivolity both begin gN. with the same let- , ter they arc very >1 much one and tho same thing, but, as I ls generally tho <aso, this popular bolJ idea is very wide S§jrf of the truth. While a guest at the country scat of a leading lady of fashion last week, writes . <nr New 'p'rt York lady eorre- ' \\ spondent, she said i \\ to me. with a sigh: l U “I dread to think \ » of a return to \ t\ town. Fashionable 1 us. life has so many \ t ares, so many re- * SOT'S liabilities, so f.w&'vy 4 ’’ many tasks. It is not merely a question of clothes, as

the world imagines it. to be; it is the labor which your prominent position entails upon you. The clothes are tho mere outward sign of your ability and fitness to pose as grand lady, as society leader, as committee woman, as patroness. But the season grows later and later every year. ” The autumn fetes at tho country scats are taking on a particular effulgence this autumn, and I must say that I don’t blame a refined and elegant lady for looking forward with such delight to these few weeks as mistress of tho manse. Here In large rooms and wide halls she may display her most graceful toilets, here she is queen, everyone bends to her. compliments her, consults her, obeys her. It is not like the narrow field of triumph in the town drawing room, where she must share her scepter with a score of others, No, no; here she is the lady of the castle. Her comings and goings and sayings are noted and studied, for this great roomy home is her kingdom and these broad lands are her domain. For initial illustration the artist has pictured a charming indoor costume of veiling and embroidery, full of style and distinction, and not a costly gown withal. The color of the material should be cream, while the embroidery should be in bise brown, and if you so desiro you may embroider directly upon ths stuff itself. It will bo noticed that the embroidered collarette slopes very gradually to a point at the waist, and Is set off by a lace or crepe de chine jabot* Great care must be taken to have the basques lie perfectly flat and smooth

over the hips, and the deep cu"s should be considerably wider than the sleeve. A visit to one of these country scats In the fall is something to remember. 1 was delighted with everything I saw, from the brown linen tablecloths of the breakfast table, embroidered in red. or blue, «*r yellow, and bordered with old guipure, to the dainty deshabilles of the breakfast hour and the stylish afternoon toilets and rich evening dresses Oh, these negliges are exquisite, made up in soft and clinging stuff, perfect billows of crepes and soft silks, set off with fichus and jabots and cascades of lace, all in delicate tones, all harmonious and restful for wearer and spectator. Yes, restful, for I claim that a woman may be comfortable iu her manners, restful In her gowns and consoling in her conversation. To compare our sex to songs, I would say that some women have the effect upon us of dirges others of war songs, others of glees, and others stPl of lullabies. The same remark apl lies to men fo.ks, only some men have th •. effect upon their households not only o. a war song but a war dance

You will find an altogether delightful gown pictured in my second illustration —a brocaded woolen stuff. The skirt corres over the corsage, which is closed in front with hooks and eyes. The trout is fuller than the lining and gathered. The braces are of velvet and start at the shoulders from bows. Much skill is called for in making tip the corselet, which must be ol st-ong lining, boned, and the stuff draped upon it: and it must be made to hook at the back. The sleeves are draped and a \el vet bow set

to bold the gathered portion. Tbeskrt is made over a silk foundation, and has a headed flounce at the bottom, and the front bieadth has two bands of the velvet ribbon with bows The skirt is plain in front but full gathered at the back.

My third illustration will give you a very correct idea of a delightful creation In the line of reception toilets. It is made up in a light-blue amazon cloth. Tho skirt is fully pleated at the back, ar.d the corsage is set otf with a passementerie vest made with a sailor collar. The dress front is tight-iittlng, ornamented with a straight collar, plastron, and jabot of crepe ue chine; and there is a ceinture of black velvet closing under the vest Tho plas ro:i is sewed on one side and hooked on the other. The rather full sleeves have passementerie cuffs with crepe de chine rutiles. I am glad to note an inclination to vary the plainness of the long jackets by an outer or sort of Figaro jacket maae over it In my fourth illustration you will find represented a very charming costume of this new and stylish cut It is made up in faille francaise, the skirt being plain in front and the fan pleats at the back being close folded. Tho bottom i 9 turned up and forms a hem a hand wide. The silk foundation has a rutile at tho bottom and a draw-string half-way up tho back breadth. The pleats beyond the opening are caughton a narrow band of the stuff and hooked to the waist. In front, the dress is mado in three parts, the under one, in ottoman faille, is tight-fitting, closes iu tho middle and is covored with pleated guipure, forming a jabot at the throat Then comes the long basque-like front, cut full enough to hang well, and over this there is a Figaro-like jacket These borders are garnitured with Pompadour passementerie, which must be so laid on tho stuff as to give the look of being em-

broidercd upon It. The loutid edges ol the adjusted waist are garnitured with the passementerie and are lengthened by flaps, whleh extend about five Inches below the waist lino The sleeves tiro set high on the shoulders and have pleated cuffs of tho guipure. The collar to Is slightly in front My last illustration sets fortli a vory stylish and reflnod indoor gown In darkgray vlcunacloth, garnitured with passe mcnterle. The skirt Is slightly draped in front and the front must be made longer for that purpose Tho back 1» gathered and held in place by a buckle covered with the stuff. The lowor edge of the skirt is slit at every live inches and ornamented with passementerie running to a point at the top In order that tho back breadth may be fitto I to the waist, the scams are closed up only within about eight inches of the waist line. A band is sewed to both sides ol this opening and fastened to tho lining. The front of the corsage Is double; t. e lining closing in the middlo Is mado with darts and over it you drape a sort ol plastron In loose wave-1 Ike folds. The sides are lined with silk and have only one dart, there being two pleats in the place of the second dart. A shawl collar of passementerie roaches to the shoulder seams. The sleeves are made plain, then placed upon a form and draped as indicated in tho illustration. They must be made much larger to allow for this effect,. Tho passementorle eelnturo Is sewed all the way around tc the front and hooked on the opposite side.

To te worn wfth autumn costume* 1 notice some charming Venetian short cloaks, fastened in the most picturesque style to the shoulders, from which they seem to be ready to drop. They are ol velvet lined with some bright-colored silk which is visib'e as broad rovers a? the cloak falls open in front The silk

covers the wide turn over collar ant has some metal garniture The cloak is richly embroidered or set off with passementerie around its entire edge With this picturesque garment you mus wear one of those delightfully media vallooking Henry 11. to ues, in velvet ol the same tone as the Venetian cloak. The soft crown is quite smothered undei embroidery, and there is a golden-brown feather aigrette, very ta 1 and set on one side with a very striking and pleas ing dash. Yon’ll see these two bits of o’d fashioned feminine fancies greatly affected this season at theater, concert, and reception. They date back to th time when the great artists of the day designed the (ourt costum s. You see the princess form in many of the new dresses. Sometime* tho gown Is only made prints* at the back, and the overskirt Is fast‘tied to the labile! on each side by a row of old st le buttons. The corsage Is made Louis XIV., with revers. and there fs a long vest ol cld brocade extending w.-ll down ove: the hips and coming to a point In front. Fur will be much affected a little lat r on for collar, cuffs, and garniture at the bottom of the skirt The full flowing sleeve ends at the elbow, and there Is a tight-fitting sleeve of the brocade reaching to the wrist Small bonnets have light-colored strings which pass around the Greek chignon and are tied gracefully under the chin. CrtKUKAQUK Isi.axd, in Casco Bay, Maine, has a populatio > of over 4.000, nearly allot whom are named Hamilton There are 200 peop.e on the Island who never s*w a steam-car. Tits Indians in Alaska eat strawber* ries soaked i» seal oil

INDOOR GOWN IN BROCADED CLOTH.

RECEPTION DRESS WITH PASSEMENTERIE VEST.

COSTUME IN FAILLE WITH TRIPLE CORSAGE.

GRAY CLOTH COSTUME, PASSEMENTERIS LINING.