Democratic Sentinel, Volume 15, Number 39, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 16 October 1891 — APPAREL FOR AUTUMN. FOR SUPPLEMENTAL SEASON. TOILETS AT COUNTRY CLUB FETE. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

APPAREL FOR AUTUMN.

FOR SUPPLEMENTAL SEASON.

TOILETS AT COUNTRY CLUB FETE.

WRAPS NOT YET ALTOGETHER NECESSARY. An Effective Combination Dance Toilet— All Mankind Doves a Dover, and All Womankind Doves a Weddin*—Wedding Outfits—The Bride and Her Veil. For Dady Readers.

ALL signs point to an extremely brilliant season at Leno x and Tuxedo and at tho leading country clubs I n {yi— the vicinity of the MffPi metropolis, writes vfw i'M ou r New York ygczj' fashion roviewer. There Is sometning paiticularly favorable 1 n the f clear, crisp atL mosphoro to bring P out the full beauty of autumnal tints, whether In tho garbs of the forest or in the costumes o f a fashionable woman. While wraps may be necessary for rid- • lng to and fro from

the club houses, yet the moment you reach the glass-inclosed verandas and tennis courts you find the air oppressive if you are clad iu anything approaching a genuine fall costume. Many of the non-dancing ladles drive to the clubhouse and gp from thoir carriages directly to the ball-room. In my initial illustration I set before you a very effective combination toilet for a club-house dance. It consists of overskirt and bodice in gray peau de sole bordered with a ruche of darker gray, and skirt of striped faille In pale yellow, gray, and black. The hat is of steel-gray silk with black feathers, while the gloves are of pale chamois and the /an of ostrich feathers, alternately black and steel-gray. Dresses are to be slightly draped or the back breadth to be made with a broad hem, a hand wide at the bottom and diminishing to two fingers. And I note, too, that there Is a promise of a new garniture for skirts in the shape of silk or pearled fringe, such as usod to be worn In the olden time and the undulations of which our grandma pretended Increased the grace of tho lower folds of the skirt and accentuated tho beauty of the feet Velvet will bo much used as trimming for silk gowns this winter, and I’m glad to hear It, for tho combination, when artistically effected, is always very pleasing. Sometimes the velvet Is applied in broad bands at tho bottom of the skirt, at others it is arranged in the

guise of braces, which disappear under the draped celnture and then reappear and continue to the bottom of the skirt, there being bows on the shoulders half way down the skirt and quite at the bottom. Another extremely dashing and effective costume with velvet trimming was designed for a brunette, and consisted of crimson cloth edged all around with a bias of dark-brown velvet lightly beaded by a luminous streak of gold braid. This trimming also formed high officer collar and cuffs, while the full part of the sleeves was of crimson and gold brocade. « In my second illustration you will find pictured two very stylish costumes for an afternoon entertalnirent at a country club-house, or at some hotel In a fashionable resort like Lenox or Tuxedo. The lady on the right wears a mustard yellow merveilleux elaborately trimmed with Ivory lace, while the one on the left Is clad In an eccentric corabtnailon of old blue cloth having a snowy effect, and white cloth or fine white flannel. One cannot help noticing the striking and original uses to which the great designers of feminine costume put galloon and passementerie. One of the most graceful of such garnitures which I have noted consists of a baldric or shoulder belt In gold and green passementerie, which, after encircling the arm, meets In a point at the waist, whence It fa'ls to the hem of the basque. In my third illustration are pictured two more charming outdoor toilets for the supplemental season, the one on the right being a combination costume of plain and figured pompadour foulard with a crepe de chine ruffle at the neck In the same tone as the gown. The sleeves and corsage are set off with velvet ribbon. The costume on the left is made up In a light gray blue cloth, with a long coat-shaped jacket over adirectolre waistcoat of very rich pearl-colored satin beautifully figured In crimson, yellow and chartreuse green tints; celnture of gold cord. If all mankind loves a lover, all won ankind loves a wedding. No matter whether a woman ever expects to be married or not, she Is always Interested In the subject, and It’s the most common sight in the world to see a dignified miss

of thirty-five summers clamber up upon the back of a church pew to get a glimpse of the orange flowers, white satin and real lace which she has seen as many times as she has birthdays. Perhaps a few women may attend weddings to scoff and snec r, but not so the vast majority. They go to admire, to see how the fair maid meets her fate at the altar, and bow she looks as she comes down the aisle and leaves the church on

the arm of her newly acquired husband No matter how you may strive to make one wedding differ from another it’s always the same thing, for the reason that there is only one thing to do at a wedding, and that is either to be pleased or make believe that you are pleased; but there is a rumor that we are about tc adopt the custom of printing the por trait of the bride, not only in her wadding dress and traveling costume, but in her everyday garb, so that the public m.ty see exactly what sort of a girl she is, and pity or envy the groon as the case may be. Hut I doubt that these pictures will prove satisfactory to friends, that is if they are taken just previous to the event, for there will bo a studious attempt to bring out the “engaged look” and that will spoil the characteristic charm of the face. I give the counterpart presentment of one of these young lad es In my fourth illustration. It will be noted how strong the “engaged look” is in this photograph, so strong in fact, as to destroy all the natural piquancy of the face. When the poet—and poets know very littlo about dress—averred that beauty unadorned is adorned the most, he didn’t mean to assert that the faca must be divested of its peculiar charm, that expression must bo suppressed, manner

annihilated and all piquancy smoothed out of the countenance. My last illustration represents tho bride in her wedding uniform—an Ivory white duchesse satin of rich quality and beautiful shado, with a deep festoon flounce of chiffon, trimmed top and hem with exquisite old point d’Alencon Tills beautiful lace really merited the epithet old, for it had adorned tho wedding dress of the bride’s mother. A full, soft puffing of chiffon was carriod around tho edge of the skirt, the flounce falling gracefully over It. The longhty squaro cut train was entirely unadorned, tho front of the bodk e was crossed from right to left by a bias fold of satin trimmod with the samo rare lace. Tho high standing collar was shirred and smocked on tho Inner side; a jabot of chiffon filled up the space at the neck and tho very long tulle veil was hemmed with floss silk and fastened to the oraiigo blossom wreath with a diamond and sapphire crescent Tho bouquet was made of rare white exotics. The bridesmaids wore cream crepon banded around tho front of the skirt with sky-blue velvet, the jacket pockets, cuffs and collars being of the same pretty material. Colored underwear continues to bo very much In vogue, the tones being extremely delicate, such as pink, ciel blue, canary yollow, etc. Sometimes thero are broad collarettes of Valenciennes with a flounce of surah trimmed with lace at the bottom A new style ds buttoned all the way down to the flounce. A beautiful undersk.rt in canary-yellow pongee had black figures, and there were three little tucks above tho flounce of 'black guipure. The combination of yellow and black wa< very artistic With the tailor-made costume, daintily thrust into the corsage there must always be a handsome little handkerchief of batiste or of pink or yellow silk, embroidered with butterflies, bees or flowers, or trimmed with Venetian lace. The most modish veil Is plain In front of the face but embroidered with £mall stars at the bottom. Those veils reach quite to the corsage and are longer than

they are broad, and the ends meet at the back. As yet, winter fashions are rather dimly outlined, or, to speak after the manner of the sporting man, thero are many entries, but It will be some time before the favorite* become known.

It is estimated ’ that the treasiire lying idle in India in the shape of hoards of ornaments amounts to £350,000,000. A competent authority calculates that “In Amritsar City City alone there are Jewels to the value of £2,000,000.” As regards some other districts the figures that have been furnished are not less astonishing. The miserable waste of Montgomery is estimated to possess about 50 lakhs in ornaments. The hillsides and valleys of Kulu are put at 3J lakhs. In Jhulern two-fifths of the wealth of the district is said to be vested in property of this nature, and inKohat, “probably one of the poorest districts of the province in this respect, the estimate is taken at 800 rupees for each Hindoo family and 10 rupees for each Mussulman family, and a. lakh in aggregate for the Nawab and other Baises, making a total for the district of 75 lakhs.” A lakh is worth about £7,000.

It is related as a curious fact that Paris, with a population of nearly two million five hundred thousand souls, has less than one hundred negroes within its limits. Statisticians say that the whole of France cannot muster a negro population exceeding f*lo. No xatteb how dull business becomes the wages of Bin are just the same.

THE ENGAGED LOOK.

THE BRIDE AND HER VEIL.