Democratic Sentinel, Volume 14, Number 48, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 19 December 1890 — Page 3

OLD FIGURES AND NEW.

"M’KINLEY PRICES” FOR ENAMELED AND GROUND GLASS. An Advance of Forty to Seventy-fire Per Cent.—The Village Home and McKinleyiam—Hard Lot of the Importer in Free America. The McKinley tariff law continues its work of raising the prices of the things "that the people need. The purpose of the law being to do that very thing, the men who passed it are now finding new occasions to rejoice in its success A late case that has just come to light is that of enameled and ground glass. "This glass is made from the plain sheets used for window glass by grinding figures upon it. There are too kinds of it: what is known in the trade as “clear” and as "“obscure. ” The first Is made by grinding figures in the plain, transparent sheets, and the eye can easily distinguish •objects through it; the second is made t>y grinding one surface of the transparent sheet till it loses its transparency, and then the figures are ground upon this surface. The figures are usually squares or diamonds in ornamental designs. This glass is used mainly for making glass doors in the interior of houses; and much of it goes into the cottages of people of modest means. Much of it is used in village and country houses. It is, therefore, an article which it is to the interest of our people to keep within the reach of their purses. They were paying 45 per cent, tariff tax on this glass up to Oct. 6, but Maj. McKinley, having taken it into his head that “cheap and nasty go together,” has put the duty •enormously higher, and so the price of it has now become a regular “McKinley (price." A large New York dealer recently showed the writer some samples of this glass and gave him a table of the old prices and the “McKinley prices.” The •old prices here given are those which prevailed last July, and the “McKinley prices” took effect Nov. 19, or as soon as the stock of glass imported under the old tariff was sold out. The prices here given are the wholesale net prices per 100-foot cases. Here is the table: Old McKinley price. price. Single, clear enameleds6.9o SIO.BO Double, clear enameled 8.70 15.00 Single, obscure 8.70 12.60 Double, obscurelo.Bo 16.50 Single, ground 6.00 10.20 Double, ground 7.80 13.80 The cause for these higher prices was ■explained by the dealer to be the new McKinley duty. What those duties are may be seen by taking a 100-foot case of 'the last kind of glass in the above table, double-thick ground glass. The old duty on this was $1.35 per case, and it was sold in July at $7.80, and some of it was sold as low as $7. The McKinley duty on such a case is $5.55, and on some of it is -as high as $6.85. It is not strange, therefore, that the wholesale selling •<yrice has now gone up to $13.80. The increase of duty does not account lor the entire advance, but the other McKinley law, the customs administrative law, explains the difference. This law, which went into operation Aug. 1, •compels the importer to pay duties on all •glass broken in shipment. The dealers allow from 10 to 20 per cent, for breakage in this kind of glass, and they must add to their selling price enough to make up for the broken glass and the duties on it. Even the glass broken by the custom-house officers is lost to the dealer, and he must pay the duty on it, too. Is it any wonder that the importers feel the injustice of such a law? “We 'talk a great deal about our rights under a free government,” said the glass man to the writer; “but we importers find that In this country might makes right. I should like to see you tell a customhouse officer that you ought not to be made to pay duties on the glass that he •breaks. He would take you for a fool, -and would laugh in your face. We have no rights which the dominant party is bound to respect. It has sold itself to the domestic manufacturers for ‘fat,’and they dictate what they want, and the law-makers obediently vote as •desired.” ,

A Big Protectionist Fails.

The Rittenhouse Manufacturing Company, of Passaic, N. J., has just failed for 8800,000. The company was engaged 4n the manufacture of blankets, woolens, and mixed goods. The* President of the company was E. H. Ammidown, who is President of the American Protective Tariff League in New York. Mr. Ammidown has always been one of the highest of high protectionists, and was -one of those who wanted the McKinley duties on blankets and woolens. These duties were greatly increased, which was to Ammidown’s advantage; . 'but the duties on wool were also much increased, which was to his disadvantage. It is said that, in anticipation of the increased tariff imposed on wool by Congress, the Rittenhouse Company made heavy purchases last summer which have not proved profitable. These purchases were made on credit as a speculative venture, in view of the certain increase in price of blankets and woolen goods to 'be caused by the McKinley law. But other people were speculating at the same time and in a contrary direction. In anticipation of the tariff every 'merchant who could afford it laid in a good stock of woolens, arguing, as Mr. Ammidown did, that woolens would go higher. The rise in the price of woo'ens ■was defeated for a time by the large supplies thus laid in; and Ammidown’s wool debts proved too heavy to carry in a tight money market. In view of these facts, and that the tariff had been made as high as the most ardent protectionist desired it, and that notwithstanding all this his manufacturing company had failed, Mr. Ammidown was dsked whether his views upon the tariff on woolens had undergone a change. But this Mr. Ammidown refused to discuss, saying that his advocacy of the high tariff had been from mixed motives, and that while he had once advocated the high tariff he did not ■care to talk about it now. Ammidown attributes his failure to the Democratic victory of Nov. 4; but he does not explain’how it was that half of the woolen mills of the country were idle last summer before there was any Democratic victory. He will not get intelligent men to believe that he has lost SBOO,OOO since Nov. 4 on account of the election, especially as no change in duties can be made for two or three years yet

A Prosperous Industry.

Our protectionist law-makers have the habit of laying on duties without the slightest regard for the needs of our industries. It is assumed that all industries are helpless without protection; hence, duties are dealt out right and

left, and even the most prosperous industries are given orotective duties for which there is no shadow of excuse. The latest number of Bradstreet’s, certainly one of the foremost authorities in this countty, has the following to say about our leather industry: “The cost of tanning hides is cheaper here than in any other country. This is due in large measure to the low cost of materials. We are therefore not only able to tan all our domestic hides but the major part of those produced in Central and South America. We supply European countries with about $900,000 worth of leather each month, and our exports have been increasing rapidly within the last few years, as may be seen from the following table: Pounds sole Pairs boots Exports. leather. and shoes. 1880.21,834,492 378 274 188128,690,648 300,968 1832.133,777,711 389,120 188328,593,894 442,687 1884 22.421,293 502,122 1845 27,313,766 492.9'96 188624,265,880 554,3 i 5 1887...30,530,488 623,714 1888 1889 35,558,945 518,750 Notwithstanding these growing exports, there is in the McKinley tariff law a duty ranging from 10 to 35 per cent, on leather and manufactures thereof. These duties are almost as absurd as the .McKinley duties on corn and wheat.

TARIFF LETTERS TO FARMER BROWN.

80. 10. Does Protection Increase Wages? Dear Farmer Brown: We saw last week that protection is not necessary to prevent money from “flowing emt of the country,” since trade consists in exchanging commodities for commodities, and we are only too glad to send away our surplus commodities which we cannot consume, in order to get others which we can consume. That notion of preventing money from flowing out of the country is the protectionist’s error No. 1. We come now to error Jfo. 2. The protectionists assert that the. difference of wages between American and European labor puts our manufacturers at a disadvantage in competition with European manufacturers; and that, in order that our manufacturers may be able to sell their goods with profit, they must have a protective duty on European products sufficient to cover this difference of wages. Here is where the protectionists in this country rest the weight of their case; here they make their fight. Hence the vast amount of rubbish that they give us about the “pauper labor of Europe,” “cheap, pauper-made goods,” and “men who eat meat only once a week.” To read this dreary stuff one would suppose that Europe were one vast poor-house. These people do not seem to perceive that they push their case too far. If Europe is so crowded with paupers, all the greater is our ability to compote with them. The man who is so poor that “he eats meat only once a week” is necessarily a very poor workman and produces less than a well-paid and well-fed laborer; for a man is like a steam engine—you must throw in fuel liberally if you want results. Are you afraid of the competition you meet from the poor-house farm? It is reported that an English officer in the Peninsular War snurred his soldiers on to the attack by saying: “Are you Englishmen, who eat beef, afraid of Spaniards, who eat oranges?” That the man who gets good wages and has an abundance of good food is the most efficient laborer is proven by the observations of the pains-taking statisticians. The claim of the protectionists that protection raises wages can be shown to be false in two ways: first, by taking as examples those countries which have protective tariffs and comparing them with other countries which have no protection; and secondly, by showing from the laws of production and distribution of wealth that protection cannot raise wages. First as to examples. When we select examples to support a statement, we must always have regard to the little words frequently used in this connection, “other ohings being equal.” The countries compared must themselves be equal, so far as possible, as to density of population, unused land, .and in other features not necessary to mention here. The protectionistscan never be prevailed upon to make such a comparison fairly and fully. They always insist upon,'-se-lecting our own country, with its vast amount of unoccupied land, and making a comparison between it and the densely populated countries of Europe, where there is no government land to be taken up, and wnere even the roadsides are seldom suffered to go to waste. Every man naturally prefers to work for himself, and as long as land can be had cheaply men will become land-owners, and thereby not only take their own labor out of the labor market, but they will become employers of other men, and thus further reduce the number of competing laborers who might otherwise seek employment in manufacturing industries. On the contrary, in a country which has so much unoccupied land in reserve the entire increase of population must find employment in existing industries, or, if possible, must create new industries. The countries affording an adequate comparison are such as England, France and Germany. It is a well-known fact that in “free trade England” wages by the day or week are much higher than in “protected” France or Germany. Protectionists themselves admit this when they are not discussing the subject of wages and protection. Only last winter a Philadelphia manufacturer of glassware confessed before the McKinley committee that the wages in his particular industry were twice as high in England as in Germany. If protection increases wages, how does it happen that Germany has not succeeded in getting wages up to the English standard? Nor will it do for the protectionists to answer that we have got ours up to the English standard and beyond it; for we had higher wages than England before we had any protection. Even when we were yet colonies we were paying higher wages than England, and were sending pig iron to that country and successfully competing with English iron makers, notwithstanding the fact that England at that time had a protective duty on iron. It is a fact which the protectionists themselves are fond of calling our attention to, that even in colonial days England prohibited rolling and slitting mills in the iron industry of America. The long-established concerns of England, with their “pauper labor” and protective duties in addition, found themselves unable to compete successfully with the free-trade American colonies and their dearer labor. Is it not, then, a very cheeky thing for the protectionists to claim that protection is the cause of *our higher wages? The only comparison that is worth

anything- between the wages of two countries is a comparison of the labor cost of commodities, not one of wages by the day or week. It is always this latter form of comparison that the protectionists insist on making. Of course, we pay higher wages by the day ,or week, but as our labor produces more than European labor, the actual labor cost of production is less with us than in Europe. An official report from the United States Labor Commissioner shows, for example, that the labor cost of producing a ton of steel rails from the steel bars in this country is $1.54 in one mill and $1.38 in another; that in England the like cost is $1.36 in one mill and $2.54 in another; that on the Continent of Europe the cost in several mills is $1.04, $2.51, $2.97, and $4.64. And now as to the second point, the laws which control the production and distribution of wealth. Everybody knows that it is an inexorable law that competition forces down prices, and nobody knows this better than the protected manufacturers who combine and form trusts for the purpose of stifling competition. The men who have commodities to sell want first of all to cut off competition from —not from some other commodities that are different —but from commodities of the same kind. The hatmanufacturer wants no competition from foreign hats, hence he asks for a protective duty on hats, not one on hatchets; and the manufacturer of saws cares nothing for a duty on eggs. Like competes with like, hats with hats, and saws with saws; shutoff competition from the outside on hats and saws and the home price will go up. But the laborer has no hats and saws for sale, nor any other commodities; he has only his services. If he refuses to sell his services at a satisfactory price other laborers stand ready to underbid him. There is no duty on labor; our ports are open to the mighty stream that flows in from Europe. The population is growing rapidly from the natural increase, and no part of it so rapidly as the laboring population. There is thus a rabidly increasing number of laborers offering their services in the labor market and obliged to sell their toil under the law of supply and demand. Where laborers are scarce wages will be high, but as the number of laborers increases competition for work grows sharper, and wages become lower. Like competes with like, and no protective duty on commodities ever prevented competition in the labor market Labor competition goes on all the same, and as no duties on commodities can prevent this competition of labor with labor, no such duties can raise wages. Nobody knows this simple fact better than laborers themselves, hence the enormous growth in late years of labor organizations for the purpose of enforcing their demands for higher wages. The regulations of these organizations are shaped with a view to preventing labor competition In no industries is the fight of the workmen for higher wages more determined and better organized than in the highly protected industries.

One of the most highly protected industries in this country is the window glass manufacture, the average duties paid on imported window glass being considerably over 100 per cent.; and yet the American glass workers have one of the most compact, well-organized associations among all our labor organizations. They have the most cast-iron rules for limiting the number of apprentices in each factory, in order thus to keep down labor competition among themselves. The owners of the factories want as many apprentices as possible, so as to increase this labor competition and thus make wages lower. On this point the workmen make a vigorous fight, and no increase of apprentices can be made without their consent. The workmen are too sensible to trust to the high protective duties on glass to keep their wages high. When the protectionists speak of increasing the wages of labor they forget that the word labor must include all the people of this country who work in all occupations, and that the number engaged in protected industries is very small as compared with those in nonprotected industries. The so-called “protected” laborers are hardly more than five in every hundred workers. Now let us suppose that protection; raises the wages oi five, or even ten, workers in every hundred. These higher wages are possible solely by reason of the higher prices which the mill-owners are able to charge for their goods on account of the protective duty. But even if we assume that all this increased price goes to the ten laborers, what happens to the other ninety laborers? They, are compelled to buy these goods at higher prices. Buy them with what? I With money. Where ao they get this ' money? By laboring for it. But if you make the price of goods higher, the labor of these ninety men will buy less , of them. In other words, you reduce their wages; the loss to the ninety men will outweigh the supposed gain to the ten, and the total result to the hundred men cannot possibly be a gain—it is cer- i tain to be a loss. I deny, however, that the ten men get any permanent advantage from protection; for, in the first place, there is no law which compels the protected manufacturer to divide his gains with his men; and, in the second place, even if protection should raise the wages of the ten, this increase could be but temporary, for some of the ninety would at once begin to bid for the more profitable labor. Thus the general tendency is toward a common level of wages, allowing, of course, for the differing degrees of skill and training required. Even if the Government, therefore, should vote a certain sum to be applied to increasing the wages of the ten “protected” men they would not receive any permanent advantage from such an appropriation, for a portion of the ninety would become applicants for work in the favored Industry. Competition for work would become very sharp, and the result would be that the employers would have to pay less and less from their own pockets, and the wages of the laborers would remain the same. You cannot raise the level of water in the bays and harbors without first raising the level of the ocean, and certainly you cannot raise the level of the ocean by raising the bays and harbors. I conclude then that of all the humbug claims put forward in defense of protection, the most transparently false and absurd is the claim that protection raises wages. Yours truly,

Gun-barrels paid 10 per cent, under the old law; ( they now pay 45 per cent., which is an increase of 350 per cent Plain ivory buttons, which paid 25 per cent, duty under the old law, now pay 50 per cent

—Lewis Myers, a prominent farmer of Hanover Township, Shelby County, was found dead in his barn. Heart disease. —The Orange County Poor Farm has been run during the past year at a net cost of 77 cents per week for each inmate. —Mrs. L. A. Henning, of Waterloo, was killed by the discharge of a revolver which she knocked off a table in the dark. —Bainbridge claims the tallest man in the State in the person of Andrew Hart, who measures six feet and eleven inches. —The carriage firm of Borkner & Bnser, at Crawfordsville, has made an assignment.. Assets, $1,200; liabilities, $2,000. —Fort Wayne boasts a “Jack the Kisser,’’ and several respected Women have fallen victims to his unwelcome caresses. —W. J. Wcedinan, eff Jeffersonville, coughed up apiece of a rib that had been lodged in his lung bj' an accident during the war. —Henry Volmerding, employed in a Fort Wayne brass foundry, was horribly burned by the upsetting of a ladle ,of molten metal. —Fire in the Lowell school, near Columbus, was discovered by the teacher just in time to clear the room before the roof collapsed. —Two policemen had a lively pistol battle with half a dozen tramps in the railroad yards, at Greencastle, but no blood was spilled. | —William Gfpe, of Wilkinson, was accidentally shot on his leg, below the knee, \ylth a shotgun, by his brother, j while out hunting. —The Montgomery County Commissioners have elected W. T. Whittington as county attorney and Dr. E. W. Keegan , as county physician. —Benjamin Harris, aged 93, fell down : the cellar stairs while carrying a keg of lard at his home near Sevastopol and was seriously, injured. —The committee appointed by the Wittenberg Lutheran Synod(has declared Rev. D. J. Mitterling, of Lagrange, guilty of immorality. —George Webb who had been employed as telegraph operator at New Castle, for some time, has fled the town taking S2OO of the company's money. | —Matthews & Hatland, of Indianapolis, have purchased two hundred acres of heavily-wooded lavd near Wheatland, and will convert the timber into lumber. —The house of T. H. Winton, at Crawfordsville, was damaged by fire to the amount of SI,OOO. There was no insurance, the policy having expired the Ist of the month. —The threatened injunction against the disposing of the Pettit history of the trial has not materialized yet, and the books are being sold at Crawfordsville in large numbers. —The city officials of Crawfordsville are inspecting the electric-light system at Rushville, having in view the putting in of a new system to be owned by the city. The contract with the present electric-light company expires next June. —August Reiling, a locksmith, 65 years old, fell off a ladder while repairing a bar sawed out of a window in the county jail atFort Wayqe, and struck the stone floor fifteen feet below. He suffered a fracture of the skull and died n two ho

RICHARD KNOX.

INDIANA NEWS BUDGET.

INCIDENTS THAT HAVE LATELY OCCURRED. An Interesting Summary of the More I«n----portant Doing* of Otir Neighbors-Wed-dings and Deaths—Cr.iußs Casualties and General News Notes. —A. J. Cottrell, of Atherton, was killed by the ears. » —Elder M. M. Vanclevc. of Crawfordsville, is 80 years bld. and has married 681 couples. —John Payne, of Mount Auburn, aged 80, committed suicide by swallowing morphine. —John G. Lantz, an aged German, who lived alone at LaPorte, was found dead in his chair. —The American glass-works at Anderson, closed down for some months, will resume Jan. 1. —An incendiary burned G. W. Watkin’s stable at Mt. Vernon and six draft horses perished. —The Morgan County F. M. B. A. has petitioned the Martinsville’ authorities for a market house. —Dr. W. W. Steel, of Waveland, is under arrest at Anderson on the charge of highway robbery. —Anson Albee, of Crawfordsville, aged 73 years, walked off a trestle at Martinsville and was killed. —Benjamin Bains, of Greentown, was fatally crushed by a saw-log, which he was assisting to load. —Daniel Taxworthy, of Johnson County, lost his right arm by the careless handling of a shot-gun. —Frank Ballinger, of Rome City, attempted to skate aerotw.the lake at that point and was drowned. —The barn and out-buildings on Sheriff Brown’s farm, near Seymour, was burned. Loss, $3,800. —The population of Crawfordsville, including the suberbs, is 7,649, according to the new city directory. —Prof. A- H. Graham, of the Rushville Academy, was thrown from his carriage and dangerously injured. —Thomas Edwards, who mysteriously disappeared from Goshen some days ago, was killed by a train in Ohio. —Mary Faulkner, colored, of Jeffersonville, didn’t know a flobert rifle was loaded. She will probably die. —A wild beast, supposed to be a panther, is playing havoc with stock in Sugar Creek Township, Vigo County.

—The pension department has apI pointed a board of examining Aurgeons • for Huntington county consisting of Drs. LaGrange, Severence, E. H. Leyman, I and B. H. B. Graystone. —The authorities of Wabash College I do not know anything about the $50,000 ! bequeathed to the college by D. B. Fay- ! erweather, of New York City, other than ' what is stated in the dispatches. —A bill has been prepared to be inli reduced in the Legislature providing | that children born out of wedlock shall I take the father’s name, be supported i and educated by him, and become an I heir to his estate. —Freeling Fetters, a Wabash brakeman, was horribly crushed, at Lafayette, while makiug a running switch, which resulted in his death. The deceased leaves a wife and two children. The remains will be sent to Andrews, where ho resided, for interment. —The schools at Swamp College, Blackford County, have been closed on account of scarlet fever. The County Board of Health has taken hold, and will do all in its power to prevent the spread of the disease, of which there are grave fears. —A corn show was held at Whitlock and premiums were given by F. J. Phillips. There were thirty-three entries for the of corn, and the first prize, a stove, was secured by Jesse Palin, and the second best by Clint Otter. The prize for the two best ears of corn was given to Campbell Schemerhorn. The display of corn was exceedingly flue, and the judges William Kerr, Brazie Kiss, and David Flacher. —A frightful accident, the result of carelessness, occurred at Montgomery. A miner, named Malachi Salters, started hunting. He stopped to talk with friends and rested the gun-butt on a rail. While toying with it the weapon slipped off and was discharged, the full load entering his breast. Ho cannot recover. Salters was nearly fatally shot in a row, two years ago, and had his jaw broken by an officer's club several months ago. —One of the most bitterly-contested applications for liquor license ever known in Miami County, consuming four days’ hearing before the County Commissioners, with over one hundred witnesses, and able counsel on both sides, has Just been adversely decided against William Lancaster, a saloonkeeper at Xenia, that county. This leaves only one saloon in the village, and is a great triumph of the temperance and moral element of the place.

—Billy Grogan, a tinner, hud what is probably his last fall when he fell sixty feet from the top of the new refrigerator building erected by the brewery company at Terre Haute. One of his arms was broken, and he is Injured internally. Ho was on the roof of the tpol-works when It fell in recently, and was badly injured. Later ho was on top of the woolen-mill when it caught fire, and was again seriously injured in trying to got down. —One of the boldest robberies ever committed In Delaware county was perpetrated at Coivan. Some time in the light the robbers drove a big wagon to the general store of Perdue <fc Knottyloaded it with SIOO worth of assorted goods and drove off ufimolested. When leaving, the robbers awakened a number of unsuspecting citizens with their loud hallooing. They gained an entrance by chopping a large hole in the side of the building, and then climbed in and opened the door.

—ln the report to the Governor, for 1890, of President Langsdale, of the Soldiers’ and Sailors’ Monument Commission, lie reviews the causes of the delay in the completion of the works, and details how the commission has used every means to have it forwarded as rapidly as possible. The disbursements during the year amounted to $27,566.61, of which amount 83,31,0.61 was for incidental expenses, and the entire expenditure to date is 8112,864.99, of which sum 826,423.88 were for incidentals, and the remainder, 886,441.11, for the Structural work. —On waking up the other morning Miss Lagora Jones the 14-year-old daughter of Charles Jones, chief of the Brazil fire department, discovered that she had been relieved of her beautiful tresses of auburn hair, which were the pride of the family. Investigation showed that a window at her bedside had been raised, after forcing open the shutters, through which the thief had reached and clipped clean and close her beautiful, wavy ringlets. All the girls in town with beautiful tresses are on the qui vive. •—Police Officer William W. Reeves, of Union City, was struck by the incoming passenger train on the Big Four Road and instantlv killed. He was watching for suspicious characters, who rendezvous in Kuntz’s lumber-yard adjoining the west end of the railroad yard, and, being confused by the headlights and escaping steam of engines on the side tracks, he did not notice the in-coming train, and attempted to cross the track immediately in front of the engine, which caught him and mangled his body in a horrible manner. Mr. Beeves served through the war as a member of the Sixty-ninth Regiment Indiana Volunteers, being mustered out as first lieutenant. He leaves a widow and one son. —ln the postoffice at Rockport, Miss Annie Brown was assaulted by Miss Bettie Love, with an improvised slungsliot, inflicting injuries that will probably prove fatal. Jealousy over a lover was the cause, pf the trouble. —The Government Engineer has accepted and approved the awarding of the Madison ship-yard bid for building thirteen new government barges. The same yard recently completed a similar contract for thirty barges, giving good satisfaction.

FOR MEN’S FALL WEAR.

ARTICLES OF APPAREL WHICH DAME FASHION REQUIRES. The Latest Thin* tn Neckwear—The C-n. tlneutal au<l the Rodney in Ve*ue— Styles in Coats, Trousova, and Overcoats Some suggestions as to the latest fall styles and what will be-worn during the coming season are- gleaned from th© Chicago Evening Pont. As neckwear appears to be one of the most important points in a man’s attire, the two most prominent styles of dressing the neck are illustrated. The first cut represents the latest idea for a full dress occasion. It is called the Continental collar, and is

CONTINENTAL COLLAR.

made of the finest quality of white linen, with a flexible band that make.x it very comfortable to the neck, and of moderate height. The accompanying bow is made of the best grade of white lawn, and is what is called “The twice around*’ stvle. This combination is a revival, with slight improvements, of the neckwear of twenty-five years ago. For semi or half dress the same collar with a black silk bow should be worn. The second out is the Bodney puff or breast soars. It is a large-sized,

soft, easy-looking scarf on the neck, I and is supposed to cover the shirt front when the vest is buttoned. It should I be worn with a pin, and it will certainly be a very popular style during the comitg season. The third cut is an effect in neckwear that has long been sought after. It has proved a vex-

ing question how to obtain the little wrinkles of a tied “four-in-hand’’ in a made-up knot. For the full-dress coat, vest and pants the materials used are broadcloth, fine corded corkscrews and English crepes, the two last-named being more popular for young and middleaged men. The lapel is cut small and gracefully with a notch on points where the collar connects. The “shawl collar” is worn some, but is considered an extreme just at present. The vest is single-breasted and trimmed with serpentine or self-figured

braid put on flat and one-fourth of an inch ■wide, closed with three buttons, and the opening very slightly shaded between the V and’ O shape. The white or black silk single or doublebreasted vest cam also be worn with full dress. There ■will not be any parti c u 1 a r change of style in trousers. The double-breast-ed sack suit of black or dark-colored che-

THE FENWICK.

riots is worn much. The three-button cutaway in black diagonals, with fancy silk or washable vest and light or dark trousers, still holds its own. The Prince Albert is fast working its way back into the ranks of popularity. Trousers will be worn a trifle smaller in the leg this season.

THE MODIFIED MEDICI COLLAR.

The Medici collar is the most popular neck finish of the present season, and is most becoming to all but the stout, short-necked woman. A few years ago the Medici collar was arranged about the back and sides of the

EVOLUTION OF THE MEDICI COLLAR.

decollete of the evening gown, and wai more frequently seen on the s age than in the drawing-room. Indeed, few dressmakers were equal to adjusting it uuccessfully. and only those who essayed striking co rtumea ventured to adopt it. later it was modified in size and placed about the neck of reception costumes cut with a V front, and in this form it gained in popular favor and found acceptance r ith the conservative. However, it Aas not until the present season that ft was fitted close about the neck and became a b< on to long-necked women. It is now the fashionable finish alike of walking di ess, reception costume, and evening gown, and is also fitted to outside garments and is arranged to, I stand up about the neck or lie fiat, as, the wearer may desire. i

THE RODNEY.