Democratic Sentinel, Volume 14, Number 47, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 12 December 1890 — THE FARM. [ARTICLE]

THE FARM.

Selecting Trees. There is nothing gained in selecting large trees for transplanting. Young, thrifty trees are easier to transplant, wii< make a better start to goow, and in

the end will make a better tree. Many purchasing trees for an orchard make the mistake of selecting three-year old trees, under the impression that they will come into bearing that much sooner. With the same idea in mind, they fail to cut back the tops in proportion to the roots, and the consequence is that the tree is slow in making a start to grow and loses in this way fully as much, if not more time, than a younger tree. It is very important, in selecting trees, to get those that are vigorous and healthy. With the majority of varieties of fruits, two-year-old trees will give more satisfactory results, than older ones. Cut back the top in proportion to the roots; in many eases it will pav to cut off the whole top, leaving the straight stem; then as the branches start out select those that are the most desirable and rub or cut off all others. A bettershaped and a more vigorous tree can be procured in this way. Such trees cost less in the end, are more certain to grow, and are more desirable in many ways than larger, older trees. A good plan in many localities is to purchase what trees are wanted in the fall, and heel them in carefully, then set them out where they are to grow as early in the spring as the condition of the soil will admit. This avoids to a considerable extent the risk of fall setting, and if put out early lessens very materially the risk of spring planting. Missouri. N. J. Shepherd. A Straw Roor tor Farnu Buildings. A Poughkeepsie, N. Y., correspondent of the Farm Journal, gives the following directions for a straw or thatched roof: 1. Good, straight, rye straw & required. Make the butts even by holding it loosely and tapping on the floor, then grasp firmly near the heads, and shako out short, crumpled straws and tie in convenient bundles. 2. Have rafters the same as for shingles. 3. Use poles about two inches in diameter, or sawed- lath one and one-half inches square to tie straw to. Nail lower one to- rafters about a foot from plate, and the others fifteen or eighteen inches apart, depending on the length of the straw. Let them project about six inches over the rafters to nail the eave-board to. Nail on eave-boards. 4. Two men are required to put on straw, one to prepare the handfuls for the other who binds it on. A line is first drawn from eave-board to eave-board, to guide the butts of first course. One man takes straw and makes a band, fastens it to the pole and shoves it against the eave-board. The other man grasps a little more straw than he can close his fingers over and passes It to No. 1, wiio lays it against the band, the butts touching the line, and brings the band over the straw and around the pole; holding all firm and taut. No. 1 now takes a little straw from the head of the bunch and twists it in with the starting band, and is ready for another handful to bind on as before. 'Uhls process is repeated until the opposite side is reached. Tne next course should be tied to the second pole, the butts being laid even with the first pole. In the third and succeeding courses all the straw should be reversed, and the heads pointed down. The peak should be capped with boards. •