Democratic Sentinel, Volume 12, Number 10, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 30 March 1888 — WOMAN'S PROGRESS [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

WOMAN'S PROGRESS

JA Column or Two of Chat About the Fair Daughters of Eve. 'Together with a Few Notes oh the Latest Styles in Feminine Attire. Easter Sunday puts new millihiry •on the heads of our fashionable women, and if fair weather permits, there will be the usual annual display of bonnets and hats on the great religious festival -day. A single hat out of the multiplicity of spring styles is like a grain of sand from a seashore, and yet the first illustration in this article shows more than the identical shape and trimming of the example chosen. This 'hat indicates the tendency of fashion. The brim reaching out moderately over and agreeably shading the face, -the high, erect crown, and the absence of protuberance behind are characteristics of most of the hats that will be worn during the opening of the season. Viewed from an artistic standpoint, this hat is picturesque and not too much exaggerated. Considered as to its adaptability to a wide variety of faces, it is admirable, because it can be unbecoming to very few persons. The latest developments in millinery sustain the promise of increased si e in both hats and bonnets, and some of the new things are simply enlargements of old ones. The absence of covering or shading for the back of the head is shown in all the hats depicted in this letter. The effect generally is to impart an air of rakishness to the wearers. With the hair brushed upward, or at least without any flowing tresses, there is a neatness and jauntiness of expression to feminine heads which could not be seen under the brims or inclosures. In the matter of bonnets, the peculiar shape of tho period of the Directoire in France are being reproduced, running into pokes, and yet the neat close shapes, such as worn by the lady in our second illustration, will be extensively retained. Ribbon is rather ahead of flowers just now for trimming. Upright bows of ribbon on hats and bonnets continuing

■so long in favor, has created a demand for a ribbon that will remain in the required position without the aid of wires ■ and linings. It bears all the appearance of ordinary corded ribbon, is produced in every shade, and in all the new varieties, but possesses the unique advantage of remaining exactly as deft fingers place it. It will stand erect on a hat, or fall in single loops on skirts, the latter being a specially commendable feature, as the much-used ordinary .ribbon loops and bows have a most unpleasant knack of interlacing and massing together. Doesn’t this suggest artistic possibilities in costumes hitherto undreamed of ? If the ribbons of our millinery can be made to stay exactly in the required shapes, by simple manipulation of the hands, why not make •draperies of skirts and the embellishment of bodices of similar material, and thus impart an entirely trustworthy shapeliness to oar garments? The second sketch undertakes to show a New York lady on her way to • church on Easter morning. The outward feature of her toilet is a rich mantle. The very beautiful mantle is just new from Paris, and it is made in • drap de velours in a beautiful shade of bois, on which there is a kind of faint peach-colored bloom, altogether impossible to describe. The mantle is of -a simple but wonderfully becoming -shape, cut as a circular cloak, but made to fit the figure closely at the back by means of some ingeniously contrived pleats. The only trimming on the mantle is a handsome and effective passementerie in black and gold arranged on the back and around the neck, with a bordering of black fox fur on the collar and cuffs. The long, -plainly cut fronts are so contrived that ait becomes a necessity in walking to

hold them daintily in either hand. This is a pretty way of wearing the cloak, as the drap de velours naturally falls into the most exquisite folds imaginable, and by this means also the dainty lining becomes prettily visible. In this case the mantle is lined with a pretty tone of blue surah, effectively shot with bois du rose. The positively ’novel idea embodied in this mantle is the holding up of the front with the hands. Hitherto wraps of all sorts have been left to hang of themselves. Whatever expression they had was such as the maker imparted, and could not be greatly affected by the wearer. But in the case of this mantle she may employ her deftness and grace in producing bewitching effects of drapery. What are called afternoon dresses, which means that they are worn by women in making informal calls, dr*e just now running to checks and stripes of pronounced character. They are

distinctly English in style, and are just now accompanied by high, close collars, which impart a sort of wellgroomed, clear-cut air to the wearer. A great many children in New York are dolls to their mothers, who delight in dressing them finely, and sometimes exercise remarkable good or lamentably bad taste in so doing. The grandchildren of the late William H. Vanderbilt are known in their circle of society as well-trained, carefully treated youngsters, who are educated carefully to disregard the circumstances with which great wealth surround them. But it follows, naturally, that no money is spared in their costumes, and that good motherly love dictates for them clothing of exceptional interest. I have jnst seen and sketched two costumes made for Vanderbilt toddlers. The first little figure is clad in a charming little frock of fine cream cashmere, effectively trimmed with floral embroideries in cream silk, carried like braces over the shoulders and down the back. The other has a very smart little coat of rich Ottoman silk, with a wide cord. A full sash is ti.ed in a large bow at the back, while the coat is bordered round the hem with a very handsome flounce of Irish guipure lace. The same beautiful lace forms the collar and passes down the coat in front. The dainty little hat is of cream corded silk to correspond, trimmed with a plume of cream ostrich feathers and a bow of fine lace. The hat is prettily caught up in front to show a soft lining of quilled lace. At the time of the Greek play presented at Harvard College, Frank Millet demonstrated the ability of the trained artist to give effectiveness to costumes, and Hamilton Bell, who has just completed the design for a young lady’s costume, says that the work needs artists who have made a study of costumes worn by different nations

and at different periods. Chicago Ledger. A Novelty in Watches. One of the fads in London is the wearing of wrist watches by the women. They are both ornamental and convenient, being made in every style from the plain leather strap to the most magnificent bracelet, where the face of the watch is encircled by priceless stones. Purses, pocketbooks, sticks and umbrellas are also being introduced with diminutive timepieces, and even seal rings are being made with them.

THE NEWEST MILLINERY.

AN EASTER CHURCH TOILET.

WELL-CLAD TODDLERS.