Decatur Daily Democrat, Volume 19, Number 207, Decatur, Adams County, 1 September 1921 — Page 3

beauties of HAWAIIAN ISLES frojn page two) i e ln. while thoueande cheered. When the y got off I took their pictures. people who live on the beach practically lit® ln th< M r Nothing suits. To w ear anything but a onepieCe bathing suit would make one conspicuous. Housewives in TrenTown and eluewhere did much of their work tn bathing suits, dropping household llt rcs every now and (hen to run for a dip in the ocean. The sight gave on ,> a most peculiar -sensation at first, similar to a blow in the face, but a “tnalihini” soon got used to It. We lived nt the beach but a month, when we moved to Nuuanu valley, to a regular bungalow, on account ot our little girl.' Aloha, born January 10, in the njidst of the rainy season. T he TrenTown cottages tvpical of many at the beach, were screened in at the top on all sides, with onl/ awnings for protection — too drafty during the rainy season, and unfit for a baby. So Mrs. Ray Gardner, wife of an army, officer, with a baby two months older than ours told us. They lived there only until qrmy quarters at Ft de Russy were vacated for them. Another vital reason we movwas that the manager served notice on us that babies would not be allowed there! Thus began our. housing difficulties. With the tourist season on full blast it was nearly impossible to And a place. However, we got the house in Nuuanu valley by buying the furniture in it The occupants, Mr. Cunningham, foreman at the plant ot the "Paradise of the Pacific” magazine, and his wife, a magazitfe editor, had secured a cottage at the beach, and we got Jheir house. This was* our first read home-like place. I was never so happy as here, and npver expect to be happier. It makes me homesick now to look at its picture. Come with me! Get on a Nuuanu valley car at Fort and Hotel treets, where this car line starts, and ride past the fine metropolitan downtown stores, and around the corner over onto Nuuanu and out to the end of the car line. This takes about twelve minutes and you go past queer and interesting Chinese and Japanese open stores, with their queer smells and queer stocks — fruits, flowers, qtc.; past Japanese tea-gardens, temples, hotels, etc., until finally you reach the ‘'estate district.” Magnificent homes, whose velvety lawns cover acres and acres; with driveways fringed with magnificent Royal palms; with low broad lava or stone fences covered with vines outlining the acreage; miles and miles of hibiscus hedges, with blooms of 1200 varieties; banyans, mangolias; poinciana, golden show-

er—and hundreds ot others of large, showy flowers of vivid coloring, besides trees of great size and unusual quality', delight the .eye. The greater number of these are homes of rich sugar and other plantation owners. The Islands are strongly English and these homes remind one of old “English estates.” I have read of. Many are descendants of missionaries who "cabbaged” onto the wealth, or have cornered the real estate, their homes alone being worth hundreds of thousands of dollars. You go on past one of the old royal cemeteries, and on to the old Queen Emma home, now a park maintained by the Daughters of Hawaii. This is at the end of the car line and the rear of our home abutted on the rear of the Queen Emma home. It rains very day a little in Nuuanu and riding out you are sure to ride into and through several rainbows. Sometimes I saw three at one time and some ended near our house. Three roads awaited you at the end of the car line —to the left the winding one to the Oahu Country club; on ahead the one to the Nuuanu Pali, three miles beyond, where old Kamehameha I, Hawaii's George Washington, conquered the island by driving the enemy over the Pali or cliff; and Puiwa road to the fight. We go down Puiwa road a block and come to Park street and turn to the right for a length until we reach home. We go past pretty homes, with rusti?' bridges crossing tinkling streams flowing into great shell basins; past lovely flowws. gardens, with violets and other flowers ever blooming, past the nursery of Mrs. Taylor, our landlord’s wifefl, and then home. As you turn, you catch a view of the blue sea ahead, reminding me always ot the opening of Tennyson’s Enoch Arden,

"Long lines of cliff, breaking, have left a chasm; And in the chasm, foam and yellow sands; Beyond, high hills.” front of our house and across homes, up Lain! road, are the green mountains, ending at the right in fashionable '“Pacific Heights”; on ahead, the sea; and behind, the Queen Emma home. The landscape is brokeii and houses here have the impressed of being built “crooked"— n °t on a level, but they are. It's the la nd that is ‘“crooked.” Such was the impression I got, too, when I walked ■

down our long cement walk to our house—l always lost my balance as against the tilting landscape. Our bungalow nestled under a great Mon-key-pod tree, brought from India; at the right, under the windows overlooking the sea, nrc papaya and banana trees beside a giant lava rock covered with vinlng nasturtions and begonias that bloom all year; behind are the trees, looking as Mark Twain said like a "feather duster struck by lightning”; guava and mango trees of the Queen Emma grounds. It seemed- like a veritable Jungle to me. Although there art* no wild anitfials and no,harmful or poisonous thing on the Island, when I went out on my | back porch at dusk. I felt like a | thousand eyes might be glaring at ( me from the jungle. I always thought! to myself: "The night hath a thousand eyes” and scurried ba’ck into our bright living room. But that was alt foolishness. I went over to look at the Queen's home three times but it happened they wore holidays or times the house wasn't open. 1 • peaked” into the hall, from rhe wide colonial, pillowed porch, and saw magnificent stirays of gorgeous colored feathers in stately urns. Natives are strong on feathers—in fact royalty wore robes of feathers, and to wear a feather band around the hat or lei of feathers around the neck is a privilege of oqly a pure blood native son or daughter. One Saturday a month a yeljow feather rebe, worn I think by Kamehameha. and said to be worth a million dollars, is displayed at the Bishop museum. Tom wrote, 1 think, about the original hula dance we saw and heard one midnight from our home in Waikiki. Equally pretty, I think, were the Christmas carols. Bands go around on Christmas’eve and carol. In Nuuanu. our neighbors across the way were so favored, but wo enjoyed it, too. An auto drove up at midnight and the natives, with ukeleles and song, serenaded, until they were invited in Hawaiian music is soft, sweet and plaintive, but rather limited as to notes and grows rather monotonous.

Holidays here are observed strangely. During the vacation, thq children hunted cocoanuts and shot firecrackers. Christmas was observed fittingly by the community, with a tree on the capitol grounds forrfierly the old palace, and with tableaux,'under'spot light, on top of the capitol building. This was a dramatic story of the nativity. The Christmas carols, led by groups of school children, were sung by the audience. Tpm and I attended. Near by ust two little brown, barefooted Hawaiian tots sang as bravely and beautifully as others, the nativity song, "Holy Night.” This is given yearly and is classed by tourists with the Oberamagau Passion play and the California Mission play. On Christmas, our landlord, sent by thdir Jap maid, a lovely potted poinsettia. and so different, that I thought it must be a "poinciana”, but not so. Our landlord's wife, who has the nursery, sent by the same maid, a conple of weeks later, in honor of our baby, Aloha, a large bouquet of every kind of flower J know — and many I don't know, made in colonial style.

On Thanksgiving day, I attended the community service at Kawiaohao church, a native church, built of coral, which we pass going to Waikiki. My own pastor. Rev. H. V. White, of the Christian cjiurch, preached the sermon. The Royal Hawaiian band, whose leader has served forty years, gave a concert on the grounds preceding the service. Students of the Kamehameha schools, pure natives, attended in a body, and looked very aristocratic in their uniforms. Natives. Japanese and others took part. Honolulu observed Easter on the cret of a mountain. In the heart of Honolulu rises Punchbowl crater of an extinct volcano. At its summit a white cross was erected and on blaster morning at sunrise a prayer service was held there. A great spotlight was turned on the summit and cross several nights before and was beautiful. A local paper said: “As early as six o’clock the trails up mountain side were lined with persons working their way into the great natural cathedral, while on the road, scores of automobiles passed. Above them towered the cross. There were no pews, no ushers. Rich and poor alike stood shoulder to shoulder in praise of Him. who nearly twenty centuries ago, arose from the tomb. Finally the clouds over Tantalus were pierced by the sun, and the cross was bathed in light.” Somebody wrote and asked if there are good things to eat. That reminds me of my letter on my trip to California. I ant ashamed to read it now. It seems it is concerned chiefly with menu, but indeed the dreary long trip across continent, over the desert. had not much else of interest: And then too, I had been reporting parties and "decorations” and lunches and thought I must keep it up! I note that I said it, was “a la carte” , when I meant "table d’ hote.” That ; error has worried me considerably. I i also found out that the Cliff House

DECATUR DAILY DEMOCRAT, THURSDAY. SEPTEMBER 1, 1921,

at San Francisco is not in tig bay us someone on the ferry suld, but out Golden Gate park wav! Corrected! But about Hawaiian eats. I have been telling about beautiful things only. Now I am going to tell libout disagreeable things, too. These you do not read of in the literature for tourists. If you like native products you live high. Otherwise you don't. Pci, the native dish, tastes to me, like the old sour paste pot Iq the Demdcrat mailing room, smells. It* Is of a dirty gray color. Natives eat It with their fingers, though it is runny like glue. It is made of the taro plant and is said to be wholesome, and good to , ward off tropical intestinal troubles. | Pineapples, fresh ripe, sweet and Juicy from the stalks, are the most delicious I ever tasted. Chinese bananas (the kind we have at home) are very good, but the apple banana not so good. Fried bananas are much oaten, but I do not like them. Neither do I care for the papaya, the fig. the guava. The papaya is a melon that grows on a tree, and the meat looks like that of a pumpkin, and is about as tasteless. The guava, of which there were many in the Queen Emma jungle, looks like a lemon in size and color, but is a beautiful pink on the inside, like watermelon. We found maggots in them. The mango, also grow there in profusion. The fruit looks like a pear, but has a hard core. When st»ved the fruit is like an apple and peach combination. There are many alligator pears, also, a fruit costing $6 per dozen or more, on the ' mainland, but only ten or fifteen cents apiece here. It is very rich and has a peculiar, beechnut, custard flavor.

Had green vegetables all winter —' string beans, tomatoes, carrots, cu cumbers, beets amt fruits —enough for a “mess” for five and ten cents each. Much of the native-grown stuff ’is wormy and bug-eaten though. Chi nese truck drivers, or Japanese with baskets swung from yokes over their shoulders visit homes daily with their fruits, vegetables and eggs, while vendors of bouquets intoning monotonously. “Flowers, flowers" add a little variety. A Hoosier finds that here he craves substantial ham and as at home, and they are difficult to get. Everything molds here—even hams and bacon, and thev* have that moldy flavor. Island eggs so]d as high as $1.25 a dozen. There is practically no pop corn, no cornmeal; while oatmeal, beans and dried cereals. even rice and macaroni develop worms. Apples, the old standby, are on market the whole season. When ottr winter is on, it is summer in Australia and New Zealand, whence fine apples come, so Hawaii gets harvests from both north and south in succession. I'was under the impassion that fish would be cheap and plentiful. But they are about eighty cents a pound. Some more and few less! The Japs have about monopolized the fishing and have priced accordingly. Anyhow, one doesn't have much appetite for fish after you visit the fish markets with its queer smells and queerer sights; Ymd the aquarium, out at Waikiki near Kapiolani park, with its Stange finny tribe. They are of all shapes and colors. There are pink and green and blue and gray fish; striped and spotted and ringed ones; som*’ that look like bright blue-feathered birds-; great I snaky-looking eels; and the manyarmed octopus or squid. Every time I went in bathing I pictured «the» eel and octopus reaching out to grab me and there wasn't much sport for me. Occasionally some got nipped—some said by coral; some by octupus; and rumors said, by sharks. Os course never read sharks though. If that, the advertising censor, was on lull duty! A San rancisco paper recently got a, shark story from a girl tourist aT Waikiki, but I think she was a notoriety seeker! Natives eat the octopus or “squid" stewed in cocoanut milk.

I might tell further here about the municipal markets. They, as well as the many of the other business houses arc ‘conducted in open air stalls, and are far from sanitary looking with, most of their wares displayed in, the open air. Os course there is very little dust in clean-washed Hawaii, but still enough tropical filth to make one reared in Doc. Hurtyized Indiana shudder. Nearly everything edible you ever imagined—and a lot more — are displayed here and presided Over by every race Imaginable. Honolulu is said to be the “Cross the Pacific.” I guess nearly dvery race in the worlrj may be s6en here, as tohrists, residents and tradesmen. The Japanese, of course, are the most numerous —so much so that they are rapidly gaining control, by birth and immigration. Many of them conduct little one-horse businesses, like little groceries, meat markets, ice cream parlors. Tliey are the dirti-est-looking places The family usually lives in the rear; the family cat rubs up against the fish, macaroni, noodles and other wares set out. for display; the children toddle around over the store; and one inspector reported where the baby had been set on the meat block when

thp block was not in use. 1 once thought it would be nice to have a Japanese servant. But not now! Os course not all ure dirty. Still they don't ever look so nice us they do on the stage in artistic little plays! And yet some of the finest and most up-to-date business houses are conducted by the Japs, too. Chinese, BortMgene, Koreans, East Indians, Filipinos, Spanish—«ll laces besides the ilawians are met, and the greater number retan their national dress. In fact Japaneao were urged to <!on American garments and take American customs, last winter, but the measure lost out. Witli their kimona gowns, more colorful obi or "sash” -and their grass sandals on which they patter along, they make a picturesque appearance. They show excellent taste in the more sober colors of their street costum ’. The little children atfe miniatures of the older ones in Mess and manners. It is the custom for the mother to carry the Infant or young child on her back. I was much amused to see a little Jap child playing with a doll which it carried on its back! I always thought Japanese wore superior to Chinese until I qame to Hawaii. The Chinese here are far superior. The women have a lovely, i efined and spiritual appearance and are really so. Their dress is dignified. Although they wear the "pants’’ costume with smocks, it is worn with so much dignity that it is not ridiculous. Young girls wear their hair beautifully in a long Jieavy braid down the back. Older ones wear the liaid tombed back, sleek and shining and caught in a low knot at the nqpk, held so with a dagger-like ornament. They usually wear earrings. bracelets and other jewelry ind ornaments of rare beauty and excellent quality. A peculiar thing I noticed about the Chinese women—no matter how poor they looked, each one always liad, when she went o market, a silk cloth in whicW she trapped her purchases. Many of the older Chinese women hobbie around on little bound feet. But they all wear leather slippers or shoes. Many wear the American skirt ami retain that lovely, plain smock coat of their nation. The Korean women also mem superior. Among the funniest garb, is that Ls the Filipino women. Their waisty ire made of transparent material li/ inosqyito netting or marqiusette, highly starched and the sleeves are of a peculiar butterfly fashion, as on frames, giving them the appearance of a ship under full sail, with its masts outlined. The Hawaiian women have adopted the “holoku” as their national dress. It is the “Mother. Hubbard”, in conservative style, and with their slight trains, which arecaught and held in the hand, they look very dignified. They show remarkably good taste, the costumes being in nearly every instance, all white, all black, lavendar or other conservative colors. The natives, old and young are the cleanest people I ever saw, whether in silk or calico. The native hat is made of a peculiarly ugly clumsy straw, but quite serviceable. Holokus maybe quite elaborate. For instance, a society item on the.reception given by Prince and Princess Kalanianols, when they threw open their newhome at Waikiki to thousands of Hawaiians, said: “The Princess white silk anjl rare yellow feather Ci, the Prince w-earing a bftiutiful rose and maiden hair fern Ci.” The prevalent belief that the natives still wear grass skirts (and but little of that) is wrong. They do in pictures, and maybe in a few interior rural places. It is the American who wears the most abbreviated. Standing downtown one bright day. an American tourist woman passed in barb so thin an X-ray could not have revealed her skeleton more. Standing near me were two Hawaiian women, who commented on it in gentle horror! I must say the American women do make monkeys of themselves trying

to ape indiscriminately. Some of the ugliest old hags I ever saw', lamped among the tourists. Old women, trying to be young, with made-faces and hair and dressed in gorgeouscolored silks. One old American dame who amused Tom and me in a Chinese mandarin coat, of brilliant colors. She evidently thought it was an evening cloak, but it was on the order of a breakfast affair. I said I’d tell of disagreable things, too. Os these you do not hear when they advertise. I have mentioned the mosquitos, the mold and a fewother things. Little red ants are the most general. Every house has strings around the table legs, the refrigerator and other things where food is kept. You wonder why? Ant paste is spread on the strings and the ants w-on’t cross over. Their taste is for grease. You can’t leave a scrap of greasy food about. The sink must be kept scrupulously clean. There must not be the slightest film of grease on the dishes. I solved the problem by rinssing mine in the hottest of water. I was introduced to ants the day we came. Tom had brought to me some peculiar Chinese

cakes, celebrating their holiday—of pastry with red faces painted on them. They did not appeal to my palate, so I left some on the stand in our hotel room and, some with candy in our closed grip. The next morning (he bags were alive with ant,s, who had already made inroad., on the edibles. Tom left some pennut shells on the library table one night. Next morning the ants were tin re. It was with difficulty hams and bacon, in quantity, could be kept away from ants and cockroaches. On Christmas eve when we attended the early Christmas festivities I left the dishes in the sink only two hours until wo came homo, when I found them alive with ants and two cockroaches. Everybody had this experience. But by carefulness and cleanliness I eliminated thorn to an extent. But leave only ose speck of greasy food anil a line of ants would appear, apparently from air. They certainly are highly organized. But they are good scavengers. Kill a spider and let the body lie for awhile*anti the ants will have consumed it in a short while. They rapidly clear away what, otherwise in the tropics would be a menace to health in a short time. Spiders as largo as our hands frightened us out of our senses at first; likewise little lizards, who not only came and sported on our win dow- screens at night, but sometimes slipped into the house. We Soon learned they were “beneficient” creatures who snapped up the mosquitoes. Still we didn’t like close proximity to lizards. One evening while Tom was lying down, he felt a cold, wriggly thing drop in his face. JJp he bounded and turned on the light and I -heard him scampering around. I told him it. was probably the lizard he had teased by blowing cigar smoke on it when it came nightly to the living room window screen to snap mosquitoes. There are also scorpiers thaj sting and centipedes' tljat bite. The result is painful but very serious and not fatal. One evening during the rainy season, when our baby, Aloha, was about three weeks old, a black and white “chain of lightning” ran across the floor. Emily, our maid, a mixture of Hawaiian, Spanish and Portuguese blood, was instantly alert, and she and Tom after much work, succeeded in kiklling it. From that on, we hung Aloha’s basket-bed from the ceiling, by slender copper wires, down which no lizard, spider, centipede or anything could crawl. Over this we pul a mosquqito netting! So she was very well protected! Damp) ness caused much disagreeableness Clothing in closets had to be aired frequently to prevent mildew. My kid gloves, rose-beads, suit cases, shoes were mildewed before I realized this. We saw no matches save

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the kind you strike on %er was among Ing' io the'da'mpnesTTuitif 1 Hund lair t< , , , ~ ~ .Betty Erwii er kind. It was well nil sible to use salt in a shnk bag salt was impossible. Th kind one could use was the salt in air-tight boxes. No babyMlV are allowed on street-cars. Gr * grows so fast that it costs a smi fortune to keep it down, the cos, probably owing to the rapid rusting of implements and cost of repair. Speaking of rust, it comes from "1 know not where.” It seems to attack from a clear sky. I think we have not an article of clothing that hasn’t rust on it. One time you look —it is not there. The next time you

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g the turned lait evening from a visit with today, their brother-in-luw and sister, Mr. in .re- and Mrs. Merrill Dull, at Bloomfield. ft v '*■*»■> 1 'fc V =■■ Wfer On th, ll