Banner Graphic, Volume 20, Number 54, Greencastle, Putnam County, 6 November 1989 — Page 11

Pattern Fitting Experts to Conduct Special Classes

Sewing for Success: Pattern Fitting Experts Reveal Professional Secrets

Ever sew in the same sleeve several times? Started garments you never finished? Finished garments you'll never wear? Well, you are not alone with your sewing rejects and disappointments. Every year sewers spend over $4 billion on notions, fabric and patterns. Yet only one-half of what is spent actually finds its way into usable, well-fitting clothing. This means that approximately $2 billion is literally stuffed away into drawers and the backs of closets every year. What has gone wrong? For one thing, most sewing problems that cause a disastrous fit and "homemade" look can be traced to patterns and NOT to poor sewing skills according to William Castner, senior staff member of the Southern Florida-based European School of Design. Castner, along with senior staff member Bernard Oleyar teaches home sewers pattern design and how to effortlessly adjust patterns to fit. They are currently conducting pattern fitting classes throughout the Southeastern states. "Commercial patterns are made according to standardized measurements," said Oleyar. "If you do not have these measurements you are doomed to almost certain failure." In other words, besides many other problems, patterns are made to fit sizes and not measurements. Yet many women are stuck between sizes. For some a size 12 is too small and a size 14 too large. Others need two sizes, one for the bodice, another for the skirt. No wonder frustration runs high! "For some reason, pattern companies assume that home sewers have the same expertise the professionals do and can easily make adjustments," said Oleyar, who along with Castner, teaches up-to-date professional pattern-fitting techniques to the home sewer. Their methods, perfected through the European School of Design and years of teaching, guarantee perfectly fitted garments without frustration and needless alteration. A graduate of the University of California at Los Angeles in design and business administration, Castner entered the garment industry as a clothes designer. He is co-author of The Universal Pattern Library, a book which sold 300,000 copies in its first three years on the market. The book led to requests for clinics which now

take nearly all available time for Castner, Oleyar and other members of the European School of Design's professional staff. Castner has lectured and taught pattern design in 43 states and Canada as well as through the University of North Carolina extension service. His syndicated television show featured many of the styling techniques and sewing shortcuts now taught through the design school. Senior staff member Bernard Oleyar has taught fashion design at the International University of Miami. He is known for the development of the most widely used design and tailoring curves (tools used in the design and patternmaking of garments) in the United States today. The two pattern experts have designed a basic pattern kit that can be effortlessly adjusted to the user's measurements. One of the principles covered by the former designers is that patterns should be purchased according to the width of the shoulders and not the bust measurement. Instruction shows it is easier to make a larger bust area by increasing the dart size rather than to alter the entire shape of the blouse. An accomplished sewer, Castner is also critical of pattern companies that "include a great deal of tolerance" in individual styles. For example, he says pattern companies say that sleeves are to be "eased” into armholes. Castner suggest "forced" would be a better word. He explains that garment factories can sew in sleeves many times faster that home sewers because they are sewn in flat and don't include the great tolerance as much as three inches, that pattern companies allow home sewers between the sleeve cap and armhole. During the seminar, students learn pattern fitting, shortcuts to sleeves and much more. This includes learning how to custom fit pants, skirts and bodices. Also making a pattern from scratch, making pattern pieces match and basic fundamentals of dress design. During the seminar, the woman who sews can easily learn professional fitting techniques including making pattern pieces match and shortcuts to perfect sleeves and collars First time. Every time. Participants will never again have badly fitting garments to put in the back of the closet, but will proudly wear perfectly-fitted, stylish new clothes.