Hammond Times, Volume 6, Number 209, Hammond, Lake County, 23 February 1912 — Page 10

Birthday Entertaining FABRICS FOR Cotton Frocks i FOR FOR A Linen Shower

New Ideas For

Washington

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I HE new cotton materials have

made their appearance in the

shops; also Paris models

showing; how they may be ef

fectively used. These models likewise suggest to the provident woman who makes her own clothes how to give last year's frock an air of freshness. The new gowns differ only slightly from those of last summer, but there is a little more to them, so that any alteration must be made by adding to them rather than taking away. One. of course, must do something to one's sleeves. Possibly the best thing to do with a waist of pure kimono style is to cut away the sleeve and make a long narrow armhole, reaching almost to the waist line. Some kind of an arrangement must be evolved to go under this which shall give the effect of a second bodice with a modish sleeve attached, a modish sleeve being now taken to mean almost anything with a hint of novelty. It may be full length, when it will be beet to have It of a diaphanous fabric combined with embroidery, or the sleeve may be as short ns one pleases. The short sleeve, no matter what it is made of, must have a turned back buff of the material of the main part of the gown, or if it is left with the straight square finish at the bottom, characteristic of the true kimono sleeve, an imdersleeve of tulle gathered into a little band gives a modish touch. Flounces are to be much worn on more dressy gowns. Among the skirts with horizontal trimmings coming to knee height there is a new model that has ten rather stiff little plaited frills, two Inches wide, put on in pairs, with embroidered insertions between the pairs. ' Gowns with long overskirts or tunics have full ruches of tulle at the foot of the underskirt. Arrangements of two or three wide flounces to form an entire skirt are reserved for thin materials. One lovely gown of this kind is of shadow lace combined' with bands and motifs of fine eyelet embroidery.

Two flounces of the lace with an Ir-j regular border of the embroidery make the. skirt, and over this is an overskirt of the same material, which flares away widely from the front, Overskirts or tunics are seen In all sorts of lengths and shapes on the new gowns. They are slit at the sides or in front or button up at the side front. The side front closing Is generally chosen when the lower edge of the tunic is to form & rather slanting line around the figure instead of a straight one. Then the overdrapery starts at the left of the front, gradually lengthening until the original starting point has been reached again, and the shorter side is Joined by buttons to t"he longer, leaving a piece of the latter hanging free. Another sort of tunic shows there are designers who still wish to confine feminine garments about the ankles. It has a narrow opening in the front to the very bottom, but here the two corners are fastened together to give a tied-in effect. Of the material called toweling, terry cloth or ratine mention has been made In this page before. It is to be seen in considerable quantities adorning frocks

of sheer white dimity. A charming

dress of this material in sheer white has a border of the terry cloth at the bottom and various edges on the rest

of the frock are finished with folds of It about an Inch wide, the Joining of the two materials being concealed by

an embroidery design. CATHERINE TALBOT.

THE FLOWER FAN FAVOR A QUAINT CONCEIT THAT COMES DIRECT FROM PARIS BONBON BOXES AND LAMP SHADES

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OR the luncheons, dinners and dances planned for Feb. 22 appropriate favors are ready, and red, white and blue are

generously represented. Naturally, the cherry is the particular symbol of Washington, and the repast on this occasion should begin with grapefruit generously dressed with maraschino cherries. The birthday party occurring on Washington's day will of course have a cake elaborately trimmed with preserved cherries or the richly red artificial cherries which may now be obtained, together with green leaves. 1 A few of the many Washington birthday favors are pictured. The two ice baskets are particularly dainty. One

of these is a pretty basket made of red and white crape paper with trimmings

of red. white and blue. Another is of shirred crape paper with the eagle perched on the handle, carrying the symbolic red, white and blue ribbon in

his talons.

Patriotic candle shades are of white

crape paper with Washington beads

and flags pasted on the four sides.

Candy or almond boxes are also pic

tured. These are decorated with dolls

attired In colonial costume, with pow

dered wigs and tinted cheeks and lips.

A debutante of the season whose

natal day falls on Feb. 22 will celebrate the occasion by giving a luncheon. "Naturally the table decorations and favors will be similar to those used for Washington birthday feasts.

In the center of the board will be a huge "Jack Horner pie" made of tricolor paper with narrow red, white and blue streamers radiating from the pie to the place of each girl guest. At a

signal the ribbons are to be pulled and out from the pie will Jump all sorts of amusing gifts. ' But the real souvenirs are to be small flower fans. These wind wafters are built upon a plain frame which holds tiny cells for the flowers, and the structures are to be covered with small blossoms carrying out the national color scheme.' '

The flower fan, by the way, is a quaint and at the same time pretty conceit, which comes, straight from Paris. When a more lasting token Of esteem is desired the fan may be built of artificial flowers. Th man who wishes to send his loved one an odd and lovely gift on her birthday or at Easter will do well to copy this idea of the Parisians. ,

IT ALWAYS COMES HANDY

IN

rpjHE proof of a boy's mechanical skill is usually what he can do with a knife; the proof of a woman's is what she can do with a hairpin. Few women take naturally to ordinary tools. They use hammers in a gingerly and ridiculous manner or they pound their fingers with them; they

FASHION Whims and Fads

HE orient has beeir influencing colors and styles for several years past to some degree, and now & new note from that region comes in as a result of the recent coronation of the

put blunt pointed nails along instead J mperr ' Indla Durbar colorings are , , , 1 the latest gay tones, typically East

why it splits; they use screwdrivers

THE CARDINAL'S ORANGE. AN interesting modern curio of English origin Is the "cardinal's orange," the adaptation of an idea that originated with Cardinal Wolsey. The story goes that the famous cardinal was In the habit of holding to his nose "a rery fair orange, whereof the meat of substance within was taken out and filled up again with the part of a sponge, wherein were vinegar and other confections against the pestilent airs." These oranges have now been revived, after the fashion of the old pomanders.

principally to pry open boxes, and they

think pincers were made to crack nuts with. But they know how to manage a j hairpin. She succeeds, by Its help, in turning the hasps of windows from the outside when obliged by accidental lockout to

"burglarize" her own house. She arms herself with it when traveling to keep disagreeable neighbors at a respectful distance. She files receipts upon it. The fan has long been suggested as the object most suggestive of the Spanish woman. Ladies of other countries are famed fof their specially graceful or skillful use of other dainty? family, feminine articles, but if we are asked to select the thing most truly representative of the American girl we would name without hesitation the neat, the ingenious, the inexhaustible, the magic hairpin.

Exquisite Net and Lace Waist

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Indian, In many odd designs. For those who do not care for weird patterns the durbar colorings may be used in innocuous roses and other flowers, and they make borders and trimmings that are very effective and stand out as something and different from the pastel and natural shades usually adopted for such designs. The durbar colorings are utilized also In millinery, bright plumage carrying out the idea in some instances and gay silks and facings and even parti-colored straws on some of the advance models being seen. The really sum

mery goods in all lines will show this Influence of the durbar more than any of those for late winter because of the summery climate of India, which allowed of all kinds of light fabrics and gay colors being used at the great celebration. White net is most favored of the ma

terials in a display of newly imported neckwear from Paris. Plain, plaited or

embroidered, it looks dainty and fresh,

and it is combined with any and all of

the other materials. A favored device Is an edging of perfectly plain lawn

around a collar, a fichu or Jabot of the

net, while more pretentious articles

edge the plain net with figured net or

lace of a fine and neat pattern

One real novelty Is a combination

collar and Jabot. The collar is the

regulation soft turned down affair of

embroidered handkerchief linen, and from each side of it hangs half a Jabot

not a side frill, but a real Jabot shape, The two halves differ in fabric and de

sign, one being of the handkerchief linen with solid embroidery and the

other consisting largely of lace inser

tions. These Just meet down the center of the front of the bodice. There bids fair to be a revival of bonnets next year, not the fluffy and becoming caps for theater and the like, which are designed to add piquancy to the beauty of a young girl, but real bonnets, small and old fashioned looking and probably held on with silk bonl net strings.

a WHAT IS "FOOTING?"

JT may seem Incredible, yet seasoned

nnoppers exisi wno are entirely ig

norant t the unnumbered resources of "footing." Those there are who have never even bought and who have but a

vague Idea as to what It is. They will

do well to Jearn. Footing, It may be explained to those not of the elect. Is a narrow woven net, which comes in varying widths, beginning at a. half

inch, in varying weaves, all of which

are finer than the wide cotton net

which comes for waists and which has a tiny selvage on each side. It can also be had with a tiny lace edge woven on

it, but in this case one Is restricted to the few patterns chosen by the makers.

It is, in short, a fine, little, unpat-

terned Insertion, designed for use where lace insertions are suitable and far more delicate In effect. For an all over effect it can be used In alternate

rows, with wide or narrow insertion.

and, owing to the fineness of Its weave, which makes it possible to match the

groundwork of Valenciennes lace, it is invaluable for mending purposes. It washes perfectly and can be used without any lace edge whatever for the

sweetest and simplest of frills and ruffles on aprons, fichus, little house jackets and jabots. It also makes a charming finish for Dutch curtains in lawn or mull. For washable bureau and other toilet covers to be used over a colored lining footing is far prettier than any cheap lace insertion. For

underwear or for little lingerie frocks footing never comes amiss. It comes not only in the plain weaves, but also with a little dot.

A CURE FOR DISCONTENT VOMEN are taught very wrongly about love. They are allowed to read love stories at a tender age and to form a totally false notion of love. They see themselves as charmers at a very early age. They begin trying to captivate, to charm, to enslave, the opposite sex before they are out of the nursery. ' They live and die many, many of them without ever in the

least understanding the truth about

love or. In fact, about anything else. Women are very envious by nature. There seems to be plenty of Justifica

tion in this one way you look at itWhy should one woman have luxury, ease, travel, society and fine clothes and another woman have only toll and

loneliness and privation? This Is a

useless question. We cannot explain the inequalities of life, but there is an answer to the woman who asks this question. It Is this: The more barren

the field the greater the privilege of creation. Tou have a chance to see what you can find by way of Joy and beauty: you have an opportunity to

create your own atmosphere, and it

can be a very lovely one if you learn

the secret of making It so.

Htl

Hbout the Rouse

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MODEL WITH NEW SQUARE ARMHOLE. fpHIS waist from Paris illustrates the marked revival of fine net, together with the use of the real Bohemian lace In which a Strong interest is being taken on account of the preference shown for these particular patterns by modistes. 'The waist is new in design, showing, as it does, the square armhole trimming end the one side front or vest effect, also the black lace pendant frill jabot which Is worn across the back between the shoulders instead of in the front like th (Ordinary jabot. This blouse accompanies a suit of silk mohair.

TO SOFTEN SHOE POLISH. J7JVEX when they come in those convenient "self opening" boxes the polishes for patent leather and other shoes which are put up in the form of paste blacking have an extravagant fashion of drying Into crumbly lumps soon after the box has been opened. Water has no effect on them, as they are of entirely different material from the old fashioned "shoe blacking paste." In one family several boxes of this patent kind with contents but partly used had been thrown away as entirely useless before the house mother, asserting that the aforesaid polishing paste with high sounding names were much the same as the "turpentine and beeswax" used in her youth, tried setting a discarded box on a

warm radiator. In a few minutes the contents had softened into one mass, which was in condition for use immediately. . . - In trymg thlsi method care should be taken not to risk arty chance of overheating or possible contact with a flame, as the materals of which the paste is made are highly inflammable and a few minutes inattention might easily result in a sudden and dangerous blaze. A warm f.atiron, away from the stove. Is & safe article on which to set 1L

WHAT POTASH WILL DO. QONCENTRATED potash dissolved in a little water will cleanse the grimiest and greasiest of nickel plate on a cook stove as If by magic. After dissolving the potash In a little water rub it over the plating with a small mop. An old mop is good for the purpose. If by accident a little of the potash should get on the hands or fingers dip them into a little vinegar. It will be well, however, to take the greatest care that It does not get on the hands. Kitchen sinks, drains and garbage buckets may be thoroughly cleaned in this way. Grease stains that have been ground into an old kitchen flooring will come out with potash when nothing else would have any effect on them. Use a hot solution, and if one application is not enough use a second or even a third. If the wood is very white the solution will sometimes leave a yellowish stain. To avoid this mix the solution with a little lime until a thick

paste is formed, then cover the spot

with the paste and let it remain on the

floor for twelve hours. For flooring of

better quality a weak solution of fuller's earth and soda is sometimes used.

RESURRECTION OF THE SAMPLER

Happy is the woman who numbers among her inherited treasures a family sampler, showing the needlework of her

female forbears and recording inter

estlng ancestral dates and facts. A few years ago such things were regarded as useless, if interesting, relics, and were

carefully put away where no one ever

saw them. Now they are cherished and exhibited with pride, their perfect

stitches examined and their coloring

raved over. One 'finds them hung on walls and used as table covers, but per-

FOR THE Busn Housekeeper

TUE a uaper bag over the mincer

when grinding stale bread. It will

prevent the crumbs from scattering.

An unused paint brush will be founc

of great assistance when dusting t

room in which there is much carvec

furniture or intricate moldlnga. It wll bring the dust out of cracks and cor

ners better and more quickly than a

cloth, will.

When cleaning an especially promi

nent piece of white enameled woodwork try using milk and ammonia, two tablespoonfuls of the latter to a quart of milk. This mixture will not turn the enamel yellow, as some kinds of

soap are likely to do. Rubbers of the new pattern are apt to stretch if they are hung up by the strap at the back. To obviate this a good plan is to have a wall bag made and fitted with pockets in which to slip the overshoes after wearing.

HE real disadvantage of cro

cheting, with all its beauty, as

pplld to house linen of any

sort, is the undoubted fact

that the parting of a single thread the slipping of a single loop must mean the ruin of the article. This is especially the case where the towel.

doily or table runner is inadvertently

anowea to go Into the washtub with

out a few stitches havinar been taken

to prevent raveling. Unless the owner

be an expert and familiar with the pat

tern used in the beginning. It is all but impossible for her to recrochet the insertion or edging that has ripped out.

Often, even when this knowledge is hers, the trouble seems hardly worth taking for a half worn piece. A girl who Is clever with her needle, but has never learned the use of the crochet hook while looking for something out of the stereotyped run to make for her best friend's linen shower saw and admired some guest towels in which a band of fillet crochet was inserted above the hem. In this crochet the expert had worked the initials of the person for whom the towel was

intended. The girl studied over the method and decided that as good a . result could be attained by adapting the ground used by needlewomen in Fayal. This would assuredly be far more durable. So she bought a towel length of . finely woven huckaback; above the hems she drew threads. In threes, both ways of the linen. To put it more clearly, across the towel about a half inch above the row of hemstitching she drew out three threads,

left the next and hemstitched the ends

as usual. Then three, drew out three

more and so on until the band was sufficiently wide. About twelve spaces would be a very good width. These she crossed with other drawn spaces, running up and down so as to make a square mesh band. 'With a fine linen thread she worked across from side t side along each set of strands, taking a stitch around each set of threads between the crossings and so twisting them into a sort of cord groundwork. It Is very simple, being a mere "overcastlng. j When the cross lines were worked in the same way a firm ground was the result The cut edges were closely buttpnholed and on - the open ground the girl worked in a close darning stitch, which made little solid blocks an adaptation of cross stitch letters her chum's Initials. It took some time, but the work when finished would wear as long as the last thread of the towel, ripping out being Impossible. Later she made other towels, using the same groundwork Idea, but running it up in diamond shaped points toward the middle of the towel. And when she had finished a very handsome little towel In this pattern still another idea came into her head, and she made the third towel with three medallions of the Fayal ground at each end, In each medallion being worked one of the bride elect's three initials. In case the huckaback be only moderately fine two threads drawn and two left would prove quite open space nough, or a more lacy variation could .-e mada by drawing three and leaving

two, but this brings the matter Into the field of drawn work, which is always in good taste for towels if not quite so durable as darning done on the Fayal ground.

PRACTICAL MENDING HINT. When mending kid gloves use cotton Instead of silk. The cotton is not so likely to cut the kid, and the mended corner is less conspicuous than When silk is used. To remove varnish from a fabric try an application of alcohol.

THE BEAUTY CORNER

haps the best disposition to make of

them is to place them under glass in the bottom of a tea tray, for here the

treasure is safe from harm, though in constant use. 5 . BAKING HINT. One housewife obviates the difficulty often experienced in removing a pie from the tin it was baked In by arranging two or three oiled strips of stout paper or cotton across the bottom of the tins before covering with the undercrust. When the pie Is baked It is only necessary to take hold of the ends of these strips and lift it out . A SIMPLE LINIMENT. A simple liniment that is good for a strained back after a siege of housework calls for four tablespoonfuls of strong ammonia, four tablespoonfuls of alcohol, two large tablespoonfuls of salt and about a quart of rainwater. Put these ingredients Into a bottle and shake welL As soon as the salt is dissolved it is ready for use. When needed rub the back with the liniment and continue the rubbing until the surface is warm with the friction.

CLEANING SUGGESTION. The next time you are cleaning the pantry shelves fold at least three newspapers the longest way of the full sheets. Place them on the shelf with the fold In front and fit snugly. The next time you want a clean paper slip the edge of a knife along the fold of the outer sheet and remove the soiled top. The remainder of the sheets will be left intact for future use and much tfme and labor will, be saved to the housewife.

CARE OF THE FACE. A Lli ordinary soaps contain some free alkalies which make the skin hard and dry and destroy the natural oil which renders the body waterproof. Parts of the body, of course, require to be washed with soap and hot water every day, but the hot ivater with soap all over twice a week keeps the skin in perfect order. To a woman the care of her face is, perhaps, of prime importance In the winter time. The face is so much exposed to cold winds and damp weather that it is In need of constant care from November until May. The first point about a face is to know how to wash it. The first rule never to be broken by any one who has the slightest care for personal appearance Is never to use hard water. Hard water combines with soap and forms an insoluble stearate of lime that can be seen floating on the surface of the water and is as injurious a thing as "can possibly be applied to the skin. The face can never be properly cleansed, the texture is injured, the skin becomes hard and looks prematurely old. The best water is rainwater. If this cannot be procured, add a bit of borax or benzoin to the water used, which will soften it wonderfully. Then with slightly warm, not hot, water and a good pure soap, clean it carefully with a soft cloth. The hands are. In fact, the best and softest wash cloth a woman can use, but if she insists upon using something else let her try a soft old handkerchief. After the lather is applied It should be thoroughly washed off by applying clean warm water to the face for three or four minutes. If the face in treated In this way once a day during the winter months and cleansed at other times with a good cold cream there should be no difficulty experienced as to roughness ar.d soreness which make winter a period of distress to many women. WHITE HAIR THE RAGE. Xow that white hair contrasted with a face of youthful loveliness has become the rage, a great many women are consigning their hair dyes to the shelves and using every possible means to restore their locks to their natural loveliness. White hair is no longer a mark of old age. With a fresh young face, flushed and innocent of line, it is alluring enough to arouse envy In the heart of almost any woman. White hair requires careful handling to look well. Brushes and combs must be cleaned every day, for a dusty brush makes white hair dull. Moreover white

so

hair Is Inclined to be brittle and

will permit of no rough handling. Many shampoos make white hair streaky. An excellent o.ne Is composed of the whites of two eggs, mixed lightly with a teaspoonful of warm water. Rub the mixture well Into the scalp, parting the hair in strands; also rub it well into the long hair. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm' water, then cold, and use a little blue In the final water to give the hair a white rather than a yellowish tinge.

Jwo Fabrics Often Combined

a W

SFRINQ SUIT

IN CHECKED HAIR,

MO-

QHECKED mohair and satin are effectively combined . in this smart spring tailored suit, a tunic of the checked material falling over a skirt of satin and the ccat being of satin, with revers and cuffs of the .mohair.